Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 41

Thread: Preparation for alpine driving

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Treads View Post
    What kind of pressures are relevant here? 20Psi?
    I've always kept my tyres tight as I'm usually dealing with hard packed snow/ice on a hard underlying surface when driving.
    Riding my mountainbike on snow (great fun) I was down to about 10psi but that was on a ski slopes where you shouldn't be driving.

  2. #32
    Treads Guest

    Getting close now!

    Only two weeks until we head off to the snowies for our big trip. Will be doing about 4,000 Kms in 3 weeks.

    Before we go though I have to get through the following:
    1) Fit TJM Airtec snorkel
    2) Fit Milford cargo barrier (not looking forward to the fiddly part of putting the mounting plates in the body)
    3) Flush cooling system (again) and run a dose of chem-i-weld (again) to try to stop the annoying little leak from the heater core
    4) Replace old cooling system hoses with my new ones
    5) Replace old intercooler hoses with my new silicone ones
    6) Refill cooling system with 75% glycol - 25% water mix
    7) Do engine oil & filter change
    8) Fit new fuel filter
    9) Do gearbox oil change
    10) Change oil in both diffs
    11) Repack bearings on float
    12) Have a beer when it's all done

    Anything I've missed

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Tassie/Perth
    Posts
    1,454
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Treads View Post
    Only two weeks until we head off to the snowies for our big trip. Will be doing about 4,000 Kms in 3 weeks.

    Before we go though I have to get through the following:
    1) Fit TJM Airtec snorkel
    2) Fit Milford cargo barrier (not looking forward to the fiddly part of putting the mounting plates in the body)
    3) Flush cooling system (again) and run a dose of chem-i-weld (again) to try to stop the annoying little leak from the heater core
    4) Replace old cooling system hoses with my new ones
    5) Replace old intercooler hoses with my new silicone ones
    6) Refill cooling system with 75% glycol - 25% water mix
    7) Do engine oil & filter change
    8) Fit new fuel filter
    9) Do gearbox oil change
    10) Change oil in both diffs
    11) Repack bearings on float
    12) Have a beer when it's all done

    Anything I've missed

    Why that mixture???

    Unless I'm mistaken, anything over 50:50 isn't do you any favours

  4. #34
    Treads Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by cewilson View Post
    Why that mixture???

    Unless I'm mistaken, anything over 50:50 isn't do you any favours
    50:50 it is then

    Car won't be under shelter at all, was just going to play it safe

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney, NSW (nr Epping)
    Posts
    1,439
    Total Downloaded
    0
    As per cewilson, the ideal mix is 50:50.

    Are you just using glycol, or the antifreeze/antiboil type mixtures (which, I think, have extra corrosion inhibitors).

  6. #36
    Treads Guest
    I've done the following so far (underlined bold)
    1) Fit TJM Airtec snorkel
    2) Fit Milford cargo barrier (not looking forward to the fiddly part of putting the mounting plates in the body)
    3) Flush cooling system (again) and run a dose of chem-i-weld (again) to try to stop the annoying little leak from the heater core
    4) Replace old cooling system hoses with my new ones
    5) Replace old intercooler hoses with my new silicone ones
    6) Refill cooling system with 50% glycol - 50% water mix
    7) Done engine oil & filter change
    8) Fitted new fuel filter & drained rear filter
    9) Do gearbox oil change
    10) Changed oil in both diffs
    11) Changed oil in transfer case
    12) Changed oil in swivel housings
    13) Repack bearings on float
    14) Rotated tyres
    15) Fit low water alarm (when it arrives)

    Couple of questions:
    a) Is it always so damn slow when refilling the fluid in the swivel housings? or is there a trick to doing it? They kept overflowing if I filled with any haste.
    b) The drain plug on the gearbox is tight as a nuns Anyone know what size bolt it would be? My sockets only go up to 27mm, which is still too small. I tried a large shifter, but couldn't get enough purchase. I got the level plug out fine, plenty of fluid, but not good condition.

    I'll flush the cooling system in the morning and run the chem-i-weld, see if I can get rid of that bloody leak

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    To fill the swivels you turn the steering wheel to get the ball bit out of the way of the hole.

    The last leak in my radiator I had fixed cost me $33. I dropped the radiator into them. I'll buy some solder and flux and do it myself next time.

  8. #38
    Treads Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Utemad View Post
    To fill the swivels you turn the steering wheel to get the ball bit out of the way of the hole..
    Didn't think of that

    Quote Originally Posted by Utemad View Post
    The last leak in my radiator I had fixed cost me $33. I dropped the radiator into them. I'll buy some solder and flux and do it myself next time.
    My radiator is fine, it's the leak in the heater core that's giving me the whoops. It's a tiny leak, coolant doesn't look like it's dropped at all. Don't have time to do a heater core changeover, so hopefully a flush with chem-i-weld will slow it even more. I'm installing a low coolant alarm just to be safe though

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Treads View Post
    My radiator is fine, it's the leak in the heater core that's giving me the whoops. It's a tiny leak, coolant doesn't look like it's dropped at all. Don't have time to do a heater core changeover, so hopefully a flush with chem-i-weld will slow it even more. I'm installing a low coolant alarm just to be safe though
    Be careful with that one. Mine went from a small leak (why are my carpets damp, but no sign of a leak) to filling up the passengers footwell in a couple of months.
    It didn't slowly get worse, it just dumped one day.

  10. #40
    Treads Guest
    I've got the following done today (Blue bold)
    1) Fit TJM Airtec snorkel
    2) Fit Milford cargo barrier (not looking forward to the fiddly part of putting the mounting plates in the body)
    3) Flushed cooling system (again) and ran a dose of chem-i-weld (again) to try to stop the annoying little leak from the heater core
    4) Replace old cooling system hoses with my new ones
    5) Replace old intercooler hoses with my new silicone ones
    6) Refill cooling system with 50% glycol - 50% water mix
    7) Done engine oil & filter change
    8) Fitted new fuel filter & drained rear filter
    9) Done gearbox oil change
    10) Changed oil in both diffs
    11) Changed oil in transfer case
    12) Changed oil in swivel housings
    13) Repack bearings on float
    14) Rotated tyres
    15) Fit low water alarm (when it arrives)

    Quote Originally Posted by Treads View Post
    Couple of questions:........

    b) The drain plug on the gearbox is tight as a nuns Anyone know what size bolt it would be? My sockets only go up to 27mm, which is still too small. I tried a large shifter, but couldn't get enough purchase. I got the level plug out fine, plenty of fluid, but not good condition.
    Well I found out that the drain plug bolt is 32mm, so I went to supercrap and purchased a 32mm socket. Got home, jacked up the car, put axle stands under, got all my tools out, grabbed m creeper and slid under the car to do the oil change. Low and behold the damn front driveshaft is smack bang in the way of the plug. My big 1/2" drive just wouldn't fit in the space with the socket on it. So after much cursing I finally got a smaller 1/2" ratchet drive on with the socket (rubber mallet involved here ). Couldn't budge it. Took rubber sheath off ratchet drive, added length of bar for more purchase, had another go.
    3 cut and bruised fingers later, broken ratchet drive, ratchet drive and socket previously hammered into place now firmly stuck, bolt still tight
    So after belting the crap outta the ratchet drive with a bar and mallet I got it and the socket off the bolt. At this point if the bloke who put that plug in so tight had dropped by for a chat, it would've been his last I was in a really good mood by now......

    So I packed everything back up and drove over to the metal workshop at work on the bludge. Great, no-one there. I have the master keys so I had a ferret on my own. Was about to give up when I came across a massive ass 32mm combination open-end/ring jobbie.

    Went home, 20mins later had completed the oil drop, and loaded the gearbox back up with valvoline 75/85 syn blend fluid and had it off the stands. It's always the way, bloody 20 min job turns into 2 hours of buggering around because some doofis decides to put a plug in with a breaker bar, when it's only supposed to have 30 ft/lb of torque on it
    Not happy jan

    At least my list of things to do is getting shorter....

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2345 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!