It's my biggest tell tale of a failing Dc joint. They're about $850 OE new I think. Personally, I'd have a driveshaft shop rebuild it and I wouldn't make a habit of driving on it in case it breaks.
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It's my biggest tell tale of a failing Dc joint. They're about $850 OE new I think. Personally, I'd have a driveshaft shop rebuild it and I wouldn't make a habit of driving on it in case it breaks.
i had to drive about 8kms last night and the noise wasnt there. today i was under the car after a quick 2km drive to listen for the noise- still not there.
anyway, the dc joint is, i assume, the one coming from the tc case? this appears to have 2 uni joints together, then the diff end, has only one joint.
if this is the case, it seems that there is a miniscule amount of "play" in the 2nd of the 2 joints coming from the TC. but i mean miniscule. its not enough to get movement, but i can "feel" a small knock as i push up on it. no twisting free play though.
does all this sound right?
When you check for twist you will also need to put the gearbox into neutral and leave the CDL unlocked other wise it wont twist.
Also look to make sure the bearing seals have not come out which is also a tell tale.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2008/05/11.jpg
ok cheers. i checked in park, no cdl in my car anyway :(.
ok. just came back from the car. tc and gearbox in neutral. there is no twist freeplay. a tiny bit of up/down movement, but it appears to be all, or largely from the shaft that comes out of the tc before the joint. if there is any movement in the DC it seems to be the 2nd joint, on only one axis.
with the park brake on i have about 8mm-10mm of twisting-slack in the front driveshaft until (i assume) the diff takes up. nothing at all in the rear. is this normal? does the trans brake work on the rear shaft only(unless cdl could be engaged) i can see its drum off the rear of the tc.
the seals all seem fine. although from looking- the first uni-type joint seems to have metal seals, and the 2nd one, rubber/plastic. the 2nd set do look as though dirt has been attracted to them moreso than the first...
does 300-400 sound about right for a rebuild? i'll probably have to drive to the shop and have them remove and refit, os i can then drive home again. how long does it roughly take?
cheers again.
Hi Simon
Without the front shaft it wont drive with no CDL.
What year is yours???
If the acuator spigot is there,on top of transfercase above the front tailshaft output,its possible to lock the CDL with a 10mm spanner.2001+ wont hav it,but Im guessing you already know that.
Mine was $200 labour plus about $60 for the unis.We only greased repacked the "centre eye"once we nutted out how it went together.The centre eye is actually a 3rd joint between the 2 unijoints.
Make sure you find somebody who has done them before.Mike Hayes(Toombie 2) is in Whyalla,he may be able to reccomend somebody close by to you.
Goodluck
Andrew
cheers again. yeah, mine is 2002 so no internals or actuator :(
No worries mate....It pays to be a bit anal with a td5 disco. Problem with mine is that its developed so many chirps, squeeks and buzzes that I dont know what is what!! :D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by simonr23
Angus
Hi All,
Just a quick question on this topic. What would happen if one connected the drive shafts without marking the position it was fitted. I read that part in the manual AFTER I had already disconnected them...oops!
Mate I posted a while back re: chirping noise, mine was still under warranty, and it was the drive shaft,
Regards
Stevo
mine should be under warranty too, as i reported this problem while still under the 3month/5000km warranty. as its now out(and they never even looked at it during) i'm having a hard time getting them to play fair on some other outstanding issues. do u think i should get consumer affairs involved? will they get it sorted for me if i do? (OT, sorry)