I'll believe you, can't be bothered not only using the F word but logging onto their site and registering. Been using the 5w40 on my 93 Tdi for eighteen months with no probs. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by nsgnomad
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I'll believe you, can't be bothered not only using the F word but logging onto their site and registering. Been using the 5w40 on my 93 Tdi for eighteen months with no probs. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by nsgnomad
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsgnomad
Pretty much verging on a bogus test, whatever mag published it should hang their heads, it doesn't really prove anything except who has the best Falex #'s.
A Falex test hasn't got a hell of a lot of relevance for motor oils, like the Timken test and 4 ball test, it's primarily aimed at greases.
F'rinstance, I have a full synthetic ester engine oil here that blows all those tested samples away in a Falex test and it was developed way back in 1990 or 91 (I used it from '93 through '95 in race engines)
BTW it's viscosity is 0W-5, and I can tell you that some serious surface finish and clearance changes need to be made to reduce rapid wear, but it has excellent Falex test results, better than it's 10W-30, 15W-40 and 20W-50 then stable mates and better than all other synthetic engine oils I'd ever seen Falex tested back then. The problem was that good falex #'s don't correlate to less engine wear, in my case wear increased until I changed things significantly internally.
BTW, I could also add some bleach like White King to any of those oils and it would dramatically improve it's Falex test #'s, but I don't think that would do an engine much good. ;)
So it was you!! :rocket:
Allan Moffat in 1978? had no power in the fresh new race engine for Bathurst. So they threw in some washing powder so they could 'bed' the rings in a little quicker.
Needless to say Moffat retired quite early :p
Bit before my time, I'm guessing Mick Webb still built his engines back then and they would have used Bon Ami for bedding rings :pQuote:
Originally Posted by feral
Apparently couldn't be Ajax, had to be Bon Ami, so the old time mechanics told me.
I shudder at either. :(
Chlorine bleaches will improve an oils EP rating significantly, can't remember the chemistry involved but the chlorine reacts under high load giving very good scuff resistance, it just doesn't do a whole lot of good with things like the bearing overlay, oil oxidation and life, etc.
Dodgy over the counter snake oil additives often use chlorinated paraffins as the active.
HPR 15 is the recommended oil for Tdi Defenders.Quote:
Originally Posted by weeds
I have been using 5 for 18 months with no probs.Quote:
Originally Posted by MinniTheMoocha
HPR30 in the HZ and at the next oil change in the Series IIA it will be getting HPR30 or HPR40. Is it possible to run a diesel engine oil in my 2.25P? or is it not worth it. What should I be putting in the gearbox/transfer/diffs? (was going to use that 80/90 heavy duty Castrol stuff)
GOOD OIL = CHEAP INSURANCE
I just saw the heading and am replying without reading the comments...bit pushed for time...to being rude. Its about the best oil you can use. I have used it in many engines including my D2 V8 (Penrite 5w50) and in my 95 V8 - HPR 30. Its all very good stuff.
Cheers
Forgot to add to my post above, the Falex, 4 ball and Timken tests are primarily aimed at greases and oils like hypoid gear oils as it's an EP test and so is testing the boundary lubrication of the oil after hydrodynamic lubrication has broken down.
Not relevant to motor oils at all IMO.
ive been using Conoco Oil (Hydro-Clear) for the 300TDi. They use a hydrocracking method??. Always notice the difference when the new oil goes in (5000k right....well at least 7........perhaps 8??). Realy.........at that interval, does it even matter?
;)