Hmm - there is a piece of bar like that with 3 tapped threads that the guard for the cylinder bolts to. Is this extra piece in addition???
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Hmm - there is a piece of bar like that with 3 tapped threads that the guard for the cylinder bolts to. Is this extra piece in addition???
Hi Dan, Its a common thing with the long axle tube on Salisburys. Once you disturb it with welding or tube straightening its bound to leak. Best way to fix is clean joint up and put a bead of black Sikaflex around tube joint or alternatively next time you have the centre out of it put some locktite around the tube contact area. Good as fixed...Regards....Brian
Brian - I think you missed where he posted that he has found a crack in the tube!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
The crack MUST be fixed/welded, or it will propagate around the tube. A mate of mine had a similar problem - he only found it when the crack was already running around 3/4 of the axle tube!!!
weld prep and peen weld after welding.
If that is where I think it is, it will, as Isuzurover says, require competent, professional standard welding, with all mechanical parts removed from the housing. Since you need to do this, you may want to think about replacing the housing or perhaps the entire rear axle!
Unfortunately, poorly thought out "reinforcements" are a perennial problem, albeit usually on chassis rather than axle housings. (and not just aftermarket modifications - manufacturers are not blameless)
John
Yes this is an additional piece that runs along the bottom of the axle tube.
It has a similar cross-section to the piece that holds the guard. But runs from the bump stop all the way through to the diff casting (almost).
So it is the general consensus that i will have to take it out and turn it upside down to get it welded properly?
And yes, i am seriously considering swaping it out for another rear axle. Perhaps it is time to find a disc brake rear end....
Thanks all for you advice, this is the sort of thing where i like to hear what other people have found before i charge in.
While I agree with JD, that the best option would be to dismantle, and either hold the axle in a jig or pre-stress it (As MD reccommend for welding the cylinder mount on), a competent welder COULD do the job in situ, with just the axles removed and the oil drained.Quote:
Originally Posted by wovenrovings
If you want to buy a disc rear end and swap your locker over, you will need to get spacers machined for the drive flanges (county axles are 10 mm or so longer), and you will need to get the diff centre set up properly (would be best to install your centre with the crownwheel from the other axle - then you will only need top adjust the shims behind the carrier bearings).
i run the longer county axles in my defender without any problems.
i have maxi end caps for std axles and it all fits fine... thus far :eek:
FWIW, I had a similar problem with a Ford 9" rear end in an F100 (yes, it was from overloading :angel:) and had to have it re-welded several times (in situ) and it continued to crack, and I used to know some pretty switched on welders.
I'm wondering if someone has welded that piece on as the axle may not have been pre-stressed prior to welding and it's bent, so they welded the strap on to re-bend it the other way.
Sals can just crack, the Telstra 130's used in the NT were known for it, and 130man has a '00MY ex-Telstra NT 130 that has a very highly trussed P38 style axle that pre-dates the P38 style axle fitted in the Defender by several years.