Simon,
With regard to the bleeding yes. Its worth having it slightly nose high when you do it too.
Cheers
Pete
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Simon,
With regard to the bleeding yes. Its worth having it slightly nose high when you do it too.
Cheers
Pete
Hi Simon
The correct way is to remove the bleed screw,unclip the reservior(gently pull up on the filler end then it unclips,slide out of bracket) loosen cap and lift,coolant will spurt out the bleed.Re-fit bleed screw whilst its leaking.DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN BLEED SCREW,then re-fit reservior.
Goodluck
Andrew
Hi all,
Sorry to drag an old thread up to the top again but I'm having a dilema with my Td5 Defender.
Since orning her, I've had to top up the coolant from time to time.
The outside of the expansion cap always seemed to be damp.
During a recent trip, I stopped after a long motorway run and had coolant leaking past the cap. The temperature gauge was in the middle and had not moved.
I purchased a new cap and topped up the coolant (with water as I couldn't get any of the correct coolant at the time).
Since this episode, she's been running well and after a small drop, the level of the coolant has been constant.
However, on a recent run, I plugged in my new Nanocom and was terrified to see a coolant temperature of 106 degrees (along with a flashing red light on the front of the Nanocom!) At the time i was doing around 65 miles per hour. I slowed down to 45 and the temperature dropped to around 88 degrees.
I'm about to back flush the cooling system, change the thermostat and put in some fresh coolant. I'm doing this mainly for my own peice of mind.
My question is...
What coolant temperatures should I see on my Nanocom, at idle and when under sustained load/speed?, (assuming that my engine is in good health)
Do you think if you had the low coolant alarm installed before you overheated the first time, you could have saved the head?Quote:
Originally Posted by Frenchie
It is a fact that the temp gauge will only work as designed when there is sufficient water in the cooling system. Therefore, detecting low coolant at an early stage will reduce catastrophic overheating due to lack of coolant.
Even during the worst case scenario where the engine overheats (120 DegC+) due to a reason other than lack of coolant, a hose may burst or the filler cap will release coolant to a point where the low coolant alarm will sound.
What does the driver do when the audible alarm sounds? pulls over to check what's going on. Without the alarm, the car could be driven until it is well and truly cooked, drivers are generally oblivious to any problem until the car either misses, stalls or even seizes.
I’ve been there. I am now a firm believer in early warning systems.
Cheers
can any one tell me what their td5 does when you disconnect your coolant sensor wiring, while running and at operating temp, trying to diagnse a faulty sensor ,TA
The overheating wasn't caused by low coolant, it was caused by the radiator being externally clogged with mud. My fault I had been slack in cleaning it after a winter of mud plugging. Learnt an expensive lesson there!Quote:
Originally Posted by jmkoffice
The problem was, because of the really strange behaviour I didn't think it was overheating, I thought the gauge was faulty or it was another electrical problem, so drove from Perth to Exmouth and back :eek:
I guess I was lucky it didn't explode! (The computer making it cut out at least saved it from seizing).
so guys,
From reading this topic, I'm thinking that I have to bleed my coolant system.
The symptoms:
Mostly, the temp gauge moves just in to the normal range at start-up, and then up to a little over horizontal when the engine warms up. However it sometimes stays at the lower position.
For example, yesterday, it dropped to the lower position (not cold, but just in 'normal') as we drove up a long (say 20Km) winding road (for anyone local it was to Copperlode Dam outside Cairns).
After walking around doing the tourist but for a while, we started up again and it went almost straight to just above horizontal, but dropped back quickly. During the day it went up and down a few more times.
Today, I've only had it out for a quick run, but saw nothing un-usual about it!
I was debating with myself whether this was a stuck thermostat, but didn't expect it to change while driving. If it's stuck it should stay stuck!! Now I'm thinking, if an air bubble was lodging near the temp sender, that could be the problem.
All thoughts gratefully received :)
Dave