300Tdi Cooling System Problem

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the most common cause of the center headbolts being loose (when its not a failure of the bolt/head) is not following the "magic number" correctly or doing the bolts up "in sequence in stages"

make sure your torque wrench is spot on as well...

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Thanks Dave. I have two torque wrenches so I will check them against each other before I start. At the moment I am making a protractor to fit onto the 1/2" socket drive for the final stages of torquing the head down.

I was considering getting the injectors serviced while they are out, but was quoted $900 to get them done :eek: so that isn't happening.

Is there a safe way to clean the nozzles? I have no reason to suspect there is any problem with them, but they are quite sooty.


Paul

Great shed!

Will be even better when floor gets covered with spare parts and tools.

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Originally Posted by awabbit6

Thanks Dave. I have two torque wrenches so I will check them against each other before I start. At the moment I am making a protractor to fit onto the 1/2" socket drive for the final stages of torquing the head down.

I was considering getting the injectors serviced while they are out, but was quoted $900 to get them done :eek: so that isn't happening.

Is there a safe way to clean the nozzles? I have no reason to suspect there is any problem with them, but they are quite sooty.


Paul

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if you can get your wrenches safely to me I can run them over the calibrator at work, tell me what torque setting you want and I will chart up what you need to set it to to hit that number (+/-2%) Servicing the tdi injectors is a dark art and its often cheaper to replace them with imports from the UK. as for cleaning them you can get proper injector cleaner fluid but its pricey. you might try some kero in an ultrasound cleaner but thats all I can suggest.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if you can get your wrenches safely to me I can run them over the calibrator at work, tell me what torque setting you want and I will chart up what you need to set it to to hit that number (+/-2%) Servicing the tdi injectors is a dark art and its often cheaper to replace them with imports from the UK. as for cleaning them you can get proper injector cleaner fluid but its pricey. you might try some kero in an ultrasound cleaner but thats all I can suggest.

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I am confident that the torque wrenches I have are within calibration tolerances, but thanks for the offer.
I'll give the kero a go, otherwise, they can go back in as they came out.


Paul

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

Great shed!

Will be even better when floor gets covered with spare parts and tools.

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The mess will come in time ...


Paul

Paul got any spare rooms,I can help fill your shed.Don't bother cleaning your injectors they only cost $120 each new. Pat

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Originally Posted by PAT303

Paul got any spare rooms,I can help fill your shed.

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Sure, but the transport costs might be a killer!

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Originally Posted by PAT303

Don't bother cleaning your injectors they only cost $120 each new. Pat

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Thanks. Hence the reason for not getting them cleaned!


Paul

Paul,

I noticed from the pics that the head gasket sealing substance is blue, Therefore it is not a genuine gasket in the first place. (An Elring one has red sealing substance) This in my experience has a lot to do with it, and I would also suggest that POSSIBLY the previous head gasket failure may have caused an overheat, therefore the headbolts should've been replaced and weren't? It is, as Dave pointed out, a good reason why the head bolts were loose, they have stretched after having their tensile strength compromised.

I would firstly use a Elring (OE) head gasket, and replace the head bolts this time.

On another note, torque angle tensioning to 60deg can be achieved by marking with a paint pen one of the points on a head bolt, and marking a dot on the head one more point round clockwise. You then move the bolt so the paint dots line up, and 60 degrees is achieved. (6 points on the head bolt, 360deg in a circle...)Just make another dot on the head one more further and move the bolt round to that one and there is the secvond lot of 60 deg.

This is a lot more accurate believe it or not, for if the protractor slips...you have no idea where you started from or where you are!!!


JC

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Originally Posted by justinc

I would firstly use a Elring (OE) head gasket, and replace the head bolts this time.

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The new one has the red seal. I got all the new parts from M.R. Automotive - I don't think they would use rubbish gaskets.

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Originally Posted by justinc

On another note, torque angle tensioning to 60deg can be achieved by marking with a paint pen one of the points on a head bolt, and marking a dot on the head one more point round clockwise. You then move the bolt so the paint dots line up, and 60 degrees is achieved. (6 points on the head bolt, 360deg in a circle...)Just make another dot on the head one more further and move the bolt round to that one and there is the secvond lot of 60 deg.

This is a lot more accurate believe it or not, for if the protractor slips...you have no idea where you started from or where you are!!!

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That's almost too obvious! Thank Justin. I'll probably use your method and the protractor just to be sure.

Paul

The Disco went back together yesterday. All seems good so far.
Just a bit under 100km round trip to work today - no pressurisation of the cooling system at all. The bonus is that I have eliminated the rattle that had been haunting me. The obivous culprit was the bent pushrod.

Being the first diesel head I've removed, I was impressed with how clean the piston crowns and head were compared with a petrol engine. I am not real keen on the system for torquing down the head though. While I can see that it is a more reliable technique than simply relying on torque, there is really no room for error (or loosing count!).

Thanks again to everyone for their contributions - it is very much appreciated.


Paul