Replacing TD5 Exhaust Manifold Studs, D2

anyone recommend someone in sydney to replace the manifold studs and machine the manifold?.
was quoted triple what simonr23 paid :o so would like to get around that figure.

cheers
yorkie

Likewise, any recommendations in Melbourne, pref East.

thanks

geez that's a bit rich, 850-900 for a job like that! best bet is to look at workshops in industrial areas. i'm lucky(or unlucky) that i live in a suburb whereby the neighbouring one is lonsdale(industrial). i have several independent garages and they seem to charge more realistic figures for labour. around the 85-100 per hour.

if it comes to it, TRS do an exhange program for pre-machine dmanifolds. its somewhere around 100-150. i forget the exact price. some shops might be quoting high prices out of "land rover" fear, without realising it's no different to pretty much any other car for this sort of job. if the $$'s are from the machining side of things, the exchange idea should help considerably.

in my case, they used my exisiting manifold.

Here's a pic of where my EGT probe is located. ANy and all comments welcome plus some expected "normal" operating temps I should be getting with it located here. Thanks in advance for all info.

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q...G/16082008.jpg

One other question if someone can help. After some testing with Psimpson7 the other day and trying to fit a newer ECU, we noticed that my car as opposed to Pete's 90, did not build power up the rev range like his......it just seemed to work very hard as it climbed the revs (bearing in mind mine is chipped and pete's is not). Pete's was far more powerfull than mine and travelled up the revs with nice power delivery.

That got me thinking and since then I have been occasionally stamping hard on the accelarator and taking the car through 1st to 4th gear up to approx 4000 revs before changing. Now this power delivery has changed and it now seems reasonably responsive and I have also noticed that when flogging it from 1st to 4th......my EGT rarely goes about approx 450 degrees and is noramlly shows a max reading of around 330 once up to driving speed.

Couple of questions about how to drive a manual TD5;
1. Is it bad to flog the car when getting it up to driving speed - 80 or 100 kph?
2. Should I simply drive it sedately but change gear at around 3500 or 4000 revs?
3. By flogging it through 1st to 4th and only seeing about 330 degree on my EGT, can I assume that the warping of the exhaust manifold and breaking of studs is less prone due to lower EGT readings or will I still see this over time due to the engine reving higher.

Hope the above makes sense as my car seems to be driving better after a fogging around town at the weekend. The car is not my daily driver and only gets a run most wekends to the shops or on a trip.

Cheers, Mick