200Di conversion to a former rover 6?

A couple of things I didn't mention were the ratios.

The 6cyl chassis has plenty of room to position the engine/gearbox in appropriate locations leaving nice airflow around the engine being ideal - people can always make or modify radiators.

The Defender gear selectors are better suited to the Series than the Disco ones - however you need to also consider the transfer box ratios.

LT77, LT85 and R380 are all overdrive boxes (about 23%) the series G'box has no overdrive and you would want to avoid a Fairey O/D in this situation.

Your series LR runs 4.7:1 diffs on a t/fer ratio of about 1:1.2

The 200 Tdi runs on 3.54:1 diffs on a t/fer ratio of about 1.4:1 (D'fer) or 1.2:1 (Disco) both with constant 4WD.

If you change diffs on a series box, you loose your low ratios .

If you use a box from a Tdi and keep the series diffs, you still have a spicer joint front end which doesn't like constant 4WD. In that case you may also want to consider using an automatic LT230 at 1.003:1 or one of the Disco LT230s - the auto one probably being preferable.

You can solve the spicer problem, by fitting the Santana selectable 2WD t/f box outputs or using Stage 1 CV joints on the Series Diff.

Diana

So how much would a 200tdi or a 300tdi engine be worth ??????

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Originally Posted by BRINDO75

So how much would a 200tdi or a 300tdi engine be worth ??????

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I have been quoted 2 to 3K with warranty with 160ish Kms. To much for my old series 111 109:( It is a to far gone to spend that coin + all the extras:( But if was in good shape I'd do it.

WOW ive seen whole cars go for that much. i do have a swb series 3 4 cylinder diesel that i want to do this to it is in good condition but that is still alot of money.


This looks such a simple conversion from what ive seen from this thread.I was looking at rebuilding the old engine but wouldnt be gaining much.

Great advice crew, the trick for me will be getting the cost, time and effort down to a price that the misses will authorise..i.e. zero :(... but where there's a will there's a way. I'm in full information gathering mode at the moment so I can building my justification portfolio fopr presentation ot the board..ha ha ha

any more info would be great, like whats a spicer front joint?

I'm thinking a 200Di from a fender, with a later series 4 bolt box and some new diff centres. sounds great to me.

cheers all
Jim

hey jimmy

ive spoken to a few places and they hav said if u remove the turbo they are realy underpowered. and the defender motor has the turbo positioned up high so its a better fit .


prices so far are from 1950 to a staggering 4700 for everthing.


how hav you gone with pricing???

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Originally Posted by Jimmy

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any more info would be great, like whats a spicer front joint?

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In all Series Landrovers (except Stage 1 and early Series 1) the universal joints in the front driving axles (inside the swivel housing) are conventional universal joints, in fact, identical to the ones in the propeller shafts, minus the seals. These are often called spicer joints after Hardy-Spicer, the original patentees (now long since expired), although there are a variety of manufacturers. These are not a constant velocity joint like the Rzeppa joints used in the current Landrovers or the Tracta joints used in early Series 1. (or indeed the double "Cardan" joints used in the front prop shaft of some Landrovers and used in front axles by Citroen for forty years).

Because they are not constant velocity, the speed of the wheel will try to change twice per revolution when the steering is anywhere but straight ahead. Of course in general the wheel speed will not change on hard surfaces, but the drive train and engine will change in speed instead. This change in speed will normally be absorbed by the clutch driven plate springs and the engine mounts, but will show up as an unpleasant vibration, and also, since the speed changes are not synchronised from side to side, as severe reaction through the steering.

To solve the problem you can either stick to selectable four wheel drive, or replace the joints with CV joints, usually the Rzeppa type. The easiest way to do this is to use a Stage 1 front axle, but these are fairly rare. Since the diff ratio is also different it will be necessary to change the diff in either the front or rear axle (or use both from the Stage 1.

Hope this helps,

John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BRINDO75

WOW ive seen whole cars go for that much. i do have a swb series 3 4 cylinder diesel that i want to do this to it is in good condition but that is still alot of money.


This looks such a simple conversion from what ive seen from this thread.I was looking at rebuilding the old engine but wouldnt be gaining much.

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When you do I would be interested in taking that 2.25D off your hands. ;)