A fairly common occurance.
I'd go for a replacement pump. You need STC483.
According to the parts listing, the 1996 pump is different.
Hi All,
A friends 1993 Discovery 3.5 V8i is pouring out water from what looks like the water pump itself. Are these a service job or a replacement?
If a service, what parts (with numbers), do I need, or if a replacement job, will the 1996 3.9 V8i water pump fit?
Thanks in advance.
Pete'
A fairly common occurance.
I'd go for a replacement pump. You need STC483.
According to the parts listing, the 1996 pump is different.
Scott
Hi Scouse,
cheers for that part number. I've also spoken to a mate that owns a bearing and gasket business, he has said if I can tell him the part thats crapped out, he might have a replacement to suit.
Any idea what part it's most likely to be?
Cheers, Pete'
I think you know what I mean't.Obviously the water is either leaking around or through a seal, perhaps on the spline itself or through a gasket.
That doesn't make the whole water pump crapped out just ONE part WITHIN the water pump housing that's faulty.
Pete'
The part that leaks is the "water seal on the center shaft bearing" ... Because this area is generally "rusted" and usually the housing has corrosion it usually good practice to replace with new ...
No one replaces this bearing seal as the item is considered disposable (Hence no numbers for the bearing)
If you want to repair it ... You would have to press the shaft off the bearing & out of it's casing & take it to a "bearing sales place" to get it measured
Mike![]()
Pete,
My opinion is that the pump will most likely have a pin hole eaten through either near the heater hose outlets, or near the edge of the impellor.
I have been having this probelm on my 85 4 door RR. So far two pumps and one timing cover in 12 months.
Last one I pressed off the front pulley, then carefully pressed out the shaft complete with impellor.
The pinhole and errosion were welded up using those lpg powered torch and welding rods from Durafix Australia - Aluminium Fluxless Repair Rods
Also needed to check and clean ALL engine to body earth straps, and added an extra earth lead from the water pump housing to the radiator.
There was a post on another site about looking for stray voltage in the cooling fluid (found by setting multi-meter on most sensitive voltage measurement and dipping one probe in the fluid via the filling nut. Any voltage showing there means electrolysis is happening in the engine, and usually worst in the hottest and most turbulent part of the motor.
Hope this helps
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, Mike and Frank.
Yeah, my friends a bit hard up for dosh at the mo', so after I scared him with the $276 + freight + gst, I thought for a sec' and decided I would try and see if I couldn't fix it a bit cheaper for him. That's what mates are for right? Well that, free food, grog, introducing your wife's girlfriends to 'em, etc, etc
Anyway, I'm going to give it a go and pull off the unit and see how bad it is. I know it can't be good since at the end of a 5k trip, he has to refill his water again. It's weird though, as a few days earlier it was all fine. I would have half expected a seal like this to go slowly over a period of time not all in one go.
I'll press out the seal as suggested, check all surfaces and if there are any particular corroded spots, get them alloy welded.
Might even do a few pics on this since I haven't seen a repair/service tutorial on the site or anywhere else for that matter.
Does anyone happen to have a schematic or detailed internal diagram of this pump?
Cheers, Pete'
Your a good mate by the sound of it...
But I dont honestly believe I would trust it after a repair.
The impeller is likely to be bad, the housing corroded/pitted...
I wouldn't hold great faith in it after the repair...
I use to supply the ceramic seals... The cheapo CBC ones arent worth it, the more expensive ones are heading into replacement pump territory...
Good luck![]()
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks