Check the timing is actually advancing when revving. Disconnect the vac advance and check that the timing advances at least 10 or 15 degrees above 2500rpm. Or take the dist cap off and see if the rotor button moves against the advance weights and springs back again.
If the timing is not advancing sufficiently, the still burning fuel charge will be heating the exhaust manifolds( and valves
) excessively.
Leanness can also cause this, so even though you say that the mix seeems right when driving, these engines are pretty dirty and need more fuel to run at their best. Trying to run them at modern car engine emissions levels with stock injection and ignition systems will kill them off...at least yours is adjustable?
Tight engines DO work harder, but getting the manifolds to glow is(Apart from a good caning on a Dyno) a sign of incomplete combustion caused by timing or fuelling IMHO .
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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