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Thread: Clunky Rear End

  1. #1
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    Clunky Rear End

    Hi All

    My D1 has a clunky bum, it's been this way for a little while but is steadily getting worse. Here's the sound... if you have a gate, open it, put the little pin in the ground, grab the gate, and shake it... that's what it sounds like.

    It happens when the rear end is 'unloaded' (if that's the right word... not meaning a load in the back) when decelerating (or not accelerating), especially down a hill. when parked on the drive it happens when you push it sideways. jumping on the tow bar makes no sound.

    my thoughts are its the a-frame bushes but i've been under there with the biggest shifter i have and the jack extension handle to try to wiggle things and all seems tight...

    my worst fear is that it's something inside the axle wheel bearings were just replaced, could it be that the end float is too much or something?

  2. #2
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Are you shure the ball joint on the end of A arm is not about to take leave?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Are you shure the ball joint on the end of A arm is not about to take leave?
    I am not.... would it have wiggled? do i have to take the a frame off to check, and is it a hassle to get everything lined up again when putting it back?

  4. #4
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    Could be loose wheel bearings, grab the top of the wheel and reef it in and out, it will show up as a clunking internal noise. You may also experience long brake pedal travel if this is the case.

    Alternatively, check exhaust and tank mounts, or maybe it's something loose inside the tank (though it's fairly unlikely). The usual suspect is the A-frame ball joint on top of the diff, though.

    Dan.

  5. #5
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    I would look at the A frame and rear radius arm bushes to start with. Does teh car feel 'floaty'?

  6. #6
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    thanks all. on closer inspection, and harder pulling on the trusty jack handle extension, the a-arm ball joint has a little play in it. i am however doing all this with the car on its wheels, because the jack has decided to pack it in. should ibe doing these tests with teh wheels off the ground?

    off to repco i go, i need the 6203 bearing for the tensioner anyway so i shall get a new jack and some stands and then check the wheel bearings as well.

    psimpson7, it does feel a little floaty but it may just be my land rover associated paranoia kicking in again. the brake travel is long, i put it down to worn pads (just like the squeelign brakes...) but i will check the wheel bearings, i did them myself so it's quite possible i screwed up

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SenatorKang View Post
    thanks all. on closer inspection, and harder pulling on the trusty jack handle extension, the a-arm ball joint has a little play in it. i am however doing all this with the car on its wheels, because the jack has decided to pack it in. should ibe doing these tests with teh wheels off the ground?

    off to repco i go, i need the 6203 bearing for the tensioner anyway so i shall get a new jack and some stands and then check the wheel bearings as well.

    psimpson7, it does feel a little floaty but it may just be my land rover associated paranoia kicking in again. the brake travel is long, i put it down to worn pads (just like the squeelign brakes...) but i will check the wheel bearings, i did them myself so it's quite possible i screwed up
    Did my A frame balljoint 2 weeks ago,bugger all movement but it only takes bugger all.The axle flanges wear,that cause the same thing,my Disco's are OME but I always pop the caps off and fill them with grease before re-fitting and they are lasting well. Pat

  8. #8
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    Senator,

    Check the A-frame locating bolts that hold it to the chassis are tight as well as the ball joint is ok.

    The rear radius are bushes wear out and can cause the car to wander dependent on throttle (on and off) application aswell. (ie accelerate moves right, decellerate moves left)

  9. #9
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    well the passenger side rear wheel bearing's hub nuts were not even finger tight, so i tightened them up a little more than i did last time. while i was under there i also noticed that a screw/bolt holding the drivers side rear mud sheild was half out... the washer was what has been causing the annoying rattle i've been hearing since forever. so the clunky bum is better, it still makes some noise but no more than the front and you have to shake it a fair bit harder. the a-frame still has a little movement though, i will probably fix that when i do the lift

    while i was out there i fixed the tensioner bearing, no more squeek there, and i fixed the light in the clock. now all the lights work inside! awesome.

    a VERY productive day, AND i got to buy a bunch of new tools

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SenatorKang View Post
    well the passenger side rear wheel bearing's hub nuts were not even finger tight, so i tightened them up a little more than i did last time. while i was under there i also noticed that a screw/bolt holding the drivers side rear mud sheild was half out... the washer was what has been causing the annoying rattle i've been hearing since forever. so the clunky bum is better, it still makes some noise but no more than the front and you have to shake it a fair bit harder. the a-frame still has a little movement though, i will probably fix that when i do the lift

    while i was out there i fixed the tensioner bearing, no more squeek there, and i fixed the light in the clock. now all the lights work inside! awesome.

    a VERY productive day, AND i got to buy a bunch of new tools
    So can I bring my cars over,you can use your new tools to your hearts content!!. Pat

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