So how do I increase my tyre size without reducing articulation?

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Originally Posted by mcrover

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Originally Posted by mcrover
The shocks will then be your only limiting factor.

Can you explain this further Upward travel will always be limited by either bump stops, hitting body work, sway bars or spring compression, downward travel can be limited by shock length or sway bars or maybe in extreme cases catch cables

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I take it that you are now saying that the shock does not limit articulation, it only limits downward movement of the axle. As pointed out previously, if you have 250 lb springs or greater, you are unlikely to obtain any more than 8 inches in movement in your axles. Standard shocks have greater than 8 inches of travel. Therefore, depending on how you have it set up, the shock may not limit your articulation.

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Originally Posted by mcrover

I said 32" on standard steel rims dont actually touch the inner guard with sway bar disconnected but 33" will rub the inner guard on full compression on full articulation.

If you fit offset rims and fit flares then you wont hit anything up to maybe 35" without a lift

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So you are saying that you can fit up to 35 inch tyres with no spring or body lift. You only need to change your rim offset and fit flares. That's interesting as I have never heard that before.

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Originally Posted by mcrover

Ok, a body lift will lift the top of the arches but wont change where the inner guards are so tall tyres will still hit with standard off set rims.

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I always thought that the inner guards were connected to the body and would therefore move when you raised it. I will have to go and have a better look.

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Originally Posted by r.over

You notice that the longest springs they do are also some of the heavier springs they do. This is to do with the way springs will bow outwards when compressed. The stronger the wire, the less they will bend outwards and therefore you can use a slightly longer spring. This was noticed in early attempts to do spring lifts in Rangies. They found that the springs would pop out sideways if you made them too long and light.

This is why an off the shelf spring lift will always consist of a stiffer spring supplemented partially by an increase in length. You would need to be careful with making a light spring too long.

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Ummmm.... it sounds like they had a dodgy spring maker if thats their reasoning - (which they're not). I think you may find that its to maintain ride height or maintain lift with constant heavy load.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Ummmm.... it sounds like they had a dodgy spring maker if thats their reasoning - (which they're not). I think you may find that its to maintain ride height or maintain lift with constant heavy load.

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I am yet to find a 2 inch lift spring that has the same compression rate as standard.

I know that I could get them custom built, but why doesn't any aftermarket spring manufacturer in the world do it as part of their standard product range for a range rover? They offer up to 6 inch spring lifts off the shelf, but none attempt to maintain the articulation, or improve it, by simply lengthening the spring and leaving the compression rate the same or lowering it. Maybe none of these spring manufacturers know what they are doing or maybe there is a reason why you cannot simply extend the length of the spring. Something to think about.

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Originally Posted by r.over

I am yet to find a 2 inch lift spring that has the same compression rate as standard.

I know that I could get them custom built, but why doesn't any aftermarket spring manufacturer in the world do it as part of their standard product range for a range rover? They offer up to 6 inch spring lifts off the shelf, but none attempt to maintain the articulation, or improve it, by simply lengthening the spring and leaving the compression rate the same or lowering it. Maybe none of these spring manufacturers know what they are doing or maybe there is a reason why you cannot simply extend the length of the spring. Something to think about.

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You need additional spring rate to control the body as you lift it. Even those that are more into the harder 4WDing tend to load up with heavy body protection such as bull and rear bar + sliders dual batts and a winch. All of these still require heavier rate springs again. This is all just basic dynamics. RR springs really are nothing special and the only thing that they push in terms of design is probably the materials modulus of elasticity so they could run less winds.

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Originally Posted by r.over

I am yet to find a 2 inch lift spring that has the same compression rate as standard.

I know that I could get them custom built, but why doesn't any aftermarket spring manufacturer in the world do it as part of their standard product range for a range rover? They offer up to 6 inch spring lifts off the shelf, but none attempt to maintain the articulation, or improve it, by simply lengthening the spring and leaving the compression rate the same or lowering it. Maybe none of these spring manufacturers know what they are doing or maybe there is a reason why you cannot simply extend the length of the spring. Something to think about.

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why? because off the shelf kits are for muppets who dont know any better:angel: the rest of us do our home work and get whats suited to our vehicle/specs. a fully loaded 4x4 will articulate just as well with a stiffer rate front and back as an unloaded 110 with standard springs.

cheers phil

r.rover..try emailing these guys they might have the springs your after;);)
King Springs Perofrmance Coil Springs - 4x4 Store Australia

CHEERS TIM.

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Originally Posted by long stroke

r.rover..try emailing these guys they might have the springs your after;);)
King Springs Perofrmance Coil Springs - 4x4 Store Australia

CHEERS TIM.

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Thanks, but I am very happy with the spring set-up I currently have.

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Originally Posted by discowhite

a fully loaded 4x4 will articulate just as well with a stiffer rate front and back as an unloaded 110 with standard springs.

cheers phil

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Assuming you choose the right spring, of course it will. But the original question in this thread related to raising the vehicle, not keeping it at a standard height with extra load. You will maintain articulation if you add 10% to the weight of the vehicle and increase the spring rate by the 10%.

I should also clarify that by "articulation" I mean benefitial articulation. Not someone putting in dislocation cones and just letting the diff hang with no weight on it to give any traction.

Try Dobinsons Springs at Rockhampton. They make springs for quite a few aftermarket names and they also make shockabsorbers equivelent to Koni's. Had their suspension on a Cruiser 80 for about 5 years and NO problems off-road or on-road towing 25ft caravan as well. They will also freight al around Australia. BobH

I have been watching this post with interest.

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You notice that the longest springs they do are also some of the heavier springs they do. This is to do with the way springs will bow outwards when compressed. The stronger the wire, the less they will bend outwards and therefore you can use a slightly longer spring. This was noticed in early attempts to do spring lifts in Rangies. They found that the springs would pop out sideways if you made them too long and light.

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This is the exact opposite to what I have found. When I first purchased my 77 now 17 years ago it had short stiff springs. I was forever having the fronts dislocate on articulation with a BOING. It is relatively harmless, but the stiff spring would not bend enough to confrom to the base on the axle .
I have had soft long springs in my RRCs ever since. These are LRA "blue" and "green" in the front.

I cannot understand all the comments on no soft long springs available. If you cannot find what you want in the LRA range I would be surprised.
They have 180 lb rear springs "orange " which give a 2 inch lift to an RRC. they would probably be too light for a Disco 1. "Orange Purple" would give at least 2 inches with a reasonable rate of 220Lbs which is near standard.
Have a look here
land rover spring specifications

I think the main objection is that many springs are sold in the expectation of heavy loads being carried, and weight transfer could be greater in those circumstances.ie with a big load in the front will lift quite a lot and there will be no castor.
If you want a 2 inch lift with good articulation my recommendation would be LRA Orange in the back, with airbags to carry a load and maybe green in the front , which only give 1.5 inches but leave some castor.
Thios is what I have on my RRC. I have 245.75x16 tyres with no rubbing.

To fit 235.85x16 tyres you need a 1 inch body lift minimum as well and even then you will have to roll the rear guards a little..

Once you go past this point you are talking serious mods such as castor adjustment, flares with cutout guards, increased wheel offset etc.IMHO the pain exceeds the gain .
Regards Philip A