Thread: So how do I increase my tyre size without reducing articulation?

Originally Posted by mcrover

I know of 1 rangy that ran outback chellange........god knows how many years ago that ran landy axles and no body lift but massive spring lift and 35" rubber.

I would say they extended the bump stops on the front but there was also no inner guards on the back as it was a 2 door tray so no need on the rear.

It was orange and ran Ridepro suspention sponsership I think the owner/drivers name was Adrian but I may be wrong.

I say I know of but I only know of second hand and havnt seen it myself but it was brought up in a similar convo with some mates one night at the workshop.

I think that this setup has become more common. 5 years ago there was most definatly a belief that the only possible way that Rovers could run 35's was with 2' springs and 2' body with Rangie Spares flares and offset rims. Anything thinking outside of this was religeously shot down and the person proposing it was palmed off as an idiot. Those that dared to be different were doubting those that were esperienced and it would be sooooo tippy that it would more than likely roll over driving in a straight line. I found the same when I lifted my Disco 4" in the springs. Anyway, there are now more and more people doing this and you can get away with no body lift as the suspension cycles lower down in comparison to a 2" lift so the tyres dont rub. Over the last couple of years there has been more and more people doing it this way and just sorting the castor and driveline issues. No big deal really. I actually believe this is the way to go as it gets the chassis further off the ground for better clearance.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I think that this setup has become more common. 5 years ago there was most definatly a belief that the only possible way that Rovers could run 35's was with 2' springs and 2' body with Rangie Spares flares and offset rims. Anything thinking outside of this was religeously shot down and the person proposing it was palmed off as an idiot. Those that dared to be different were doubting those that were esperienced and it would be sooooo tippy that it would more than likely roll over driving in a straight line. I found the same when I lifted my Disco 4" in the springs. Anyway, there are now more and more people doing this and you can get away with no body lift as the suspension cycles lower down in comparison to a 2" lift so the tyres dont rub. Over the last couple of years there has been more and more people doing it this way and just sorting the castor and driveline issues. No big deal really. I actually believe this is the way to go as it gets the chassis further off the ground for better clearance.

So that meens 3" coil lift won't be a problem on a d1, apart from bump stops caster (maybe)???
And i plan to run 4" shocks.

CHEERS TIM.

Originally Posted by long stroke

So that meens 3" coil lift won't be a problem on a d1, apart from bump stops caster (maybe)???
And i plan to run 4" shocks.

CHEERS TIM.

Hi Tim,

I've not lifted a D1, though it would mean at least extended brake lines, new coils, new shocks, bumpstops to suit shocks, swivel rotation (castor correction), a DC front propshaft (vibration correction) and probably a uni-uni rear propshaft to sort the donut. I'm not sure if you will have front propshaft clearance issues, but I would expect the swaybars to limit drop travel if they remain on. If it were my truck then I would also be replacing the rear lower links with HD items as they fold up when being used offroad.

It would be intereting to chat to John (Bush65) about this as he fitted Landcruiser springs to his which gave 3" lift and he is very happy with the setup.

Originally Posted by mcrover

Look Pal........You cant be this dumb really, yes a body lift will lift the top of the inner guard....that is correct but it does nothing for the side and that is what fouls on articulation not just compression with taller tyres

If you want to know something then ask a question, if you want to suggest something then suggest it but dont bag people who do this sort of thing on a regular basis and make out like you know more because if you think a body lift is the be all and end all then you are 100% wrong.

A body lift has it's uses, the main one being for cheap skates to make their truck look taller for very little money and little work or to lift the arches so you dont have to cut out the guards too much but other than that.......oh and the centre of gravity thing that you flamed me with in another thread which I think is a mute point when I travel with 100kgs of tent and rack on my roof with my 30mm spring lift on 32" tyres and I havnt dropped it on it's side yet.

You like to get into the insults when you are asked to explain your strange beliefs. If you want to discuss something, I am more than willing to. I have given you many opportunities to explain what you are attempting to convey so I could see the logic in what you were saying. But instead you just want to throw insults and I am not really interested in going down that path.

If you are interested in some advice, you might want to check for cracks in your "A" pillar if you carry 100 kg on the roof.

Originally Posted by rick130

really ?

Use a better spring maker.
If a local company can't do it, use Eibach or Hyperco. They have a far greater selection of wire diameters than anyone else in the industry.
If it can't be done, they'll tell you.

Funnily enough I was able to buy 17.2" 220lb/in springs off the shelf locally to replace my OE front 14.8/15.3" 225lb springs and they easily max out the near 10" travel shocks in bump and rebound.

You will find that the 17.2 inch 220 lb springs were actually intended to go in the rear. I also thought that the discussion was around a discovery/range rover, now you want to bring in a 130 into it. But you have proved me wrong. That is, if you have a 130 you can get springs that are 2 inches longer and around the same compression.

As others have pointed out, if you go raise the vehicle you really need heavier springs to control the extra roll.

If you have 10 inch travel shocks, it means that the compressed length is at least 2 inches longer (depending on brand) than standard shocks. How have you restricted the axle to stop them topping out.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Hi Tim,

I've not lifted a D1, though it would mean at least extended brake lines, new coils, new shocks, bumpstops to suit shocks, swivel rotation (castor correction), a DC front propshaft (vibration correction) and probably a uni-uni rear propshaft to sort the donut. I'm not sure if you will have front propshaft clearance issues, but I would expect the swaybars to limit drop travel if they remain on. If it were my truck then I would also be replacing the rear lower links with HD items as they fold up when being used offroad.

It would be intereting to chat to John (Bush65) about this as he fitted Landcruiser springs to his which gave 3" lift and he is very happy with the setup.

Thanks for highlighting the advantages of a body lift.

To fit bigger tyres you need to move the hubs further away from the body. You can either lift the body or drop the hubs through a spring lift and restrict the upward movement.

The advantage of a spring lift is mainly departure angle. As most people doing a spring lift would have a bull bar, it can be raised with a body lift and will have a similar approach angle improvement as a spring lift.

The main disadvantage with a spring lift is that it raises the centre of gravity more than a body lift. That is it raises the height of the chassis and drive train where a body lift does not.

A body lift can be done in half a day for around $100. Then you look at the list above of things you have to do with a spring lift. You are talking several thousand dollars.

This is not related to the quote above. I am still unsure how people can claim that a spring that is 1 inch longer and raises the vehicle by 2 inch is not somehow restricting the axle movement. Exactly how did it raise the vehicle a further inch if it did not restrict the upward travel of the axle.

Also I am only aware of one Rangie still in the full comps. There are a few in the production class. The full one still runs Rover axles and has a body lift combined with spring lift. It also still has the inner guards. But fitting bigger tyres to a 2 door rangie is a little more straight forward than a 4 door rangie or disco. You are not restricted by the doors and can simply cut a bigger hole in the guards.

At least this thread has highlighted that there are many ways to skin a cat. Just about everyone that has posted has had a different method to raise the vehicle, including different spring rates and lengths.

Love this thread....very entertaining.


I think you are all missing the point!!!

Articulation is way over rated. Just put some bigger springs in then install lockers!

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Hi Tim,

I've not lifted a D1, though it would mean at least extended brake lines, new coils, new shocks, bumpstops to suit shocks, swivel rotation (castor correction), a DC front propshaft (vibration correction) and probably a uni-uni rear propshaft to sort the donut. I'm not sure if you will have front propshaft clearance issues, but I would expect the swaybars to limit drop travel if they remain on. If it were my truck then I would also be replacing the rear lower links with HD items as they fold up when being used offroad.

It would be intereting to chat to John (Bush65) about this as he fitted Landcruiser springs to his which gave 3" lift and he is very happy with the setup.

Thanks Slunnie
That cleared it up abit
I don't have any sway bars so i don't have to worry about them
I still want to do the 3" spring lift and i should have the springs by next thursday, i'll just do it bit by bit

CHEERS TIM.