The problem is not the clutch itself. It will most likely be an hydraulic problem, either the master cylinder or slave cylinder, or simply air in the system (which will almost certainly have been the result of one of these faulty). Fill the reservoir and bleed the system (see workshop manual).
Once bled, if the problem is still there, it will be one of the two pins that transfer the clutch actuation from the slave cylinder to the clutch fork.
To see this you may need to remove the floor and transmission tunnel. When you operate the clutch, the slave cylinder turns a short shaft. This is coupled to a shaft on the clutch fork by a steel tube about 50mm long with a cross pin at each end. These pins have been known to break, and the symptoms are consistent with one end of one being broken. It is fiddly but possible to change them in situ. The pins are hardened, and should be replaced with the correct part - mild steel will only last a few days.
If bleeding the system provided a temporary fix you would be well advised to get a new master and slave cylinder - you can usually identify which is faulty by looking for a slight fluid leak, but if one needs replacing the other probably does. If the bore is undamaged, kits are OK - but the bore probably is not undamaged.
There is a very slight chance the problem is the flexible hose, but I have never encountered this.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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