hub seals

Bent axle?.
Regards Philip A

I used to have trouble with these seals leaking when I installed them flush or 'x' mm down. i think the problem may have been that it's almost impossible to get them dead 'square' when installing like this.

However, for the past 4 or 5 years I have used the drive flange (which is exactly the right diameter to become a 'special tool') to drive them right down to the step in the hub and have not had one leak since doing it this way.

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

Of course, I use the RTC3511 double lipped seal and ensure that the surface that the seal runs on is in good nick.

Roger

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

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I've always wondered about this.

What other opinions do we have about bearing preload?

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Originally Posted by Dougal

I've always wondered about this.

What other opinions do we have about bearing preload?

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I always give taper roller bearings a small amount of pre-load and have done for twenty odd years.

Land Rover even called for it on Tdi's.
After adjusting hub nut to 50Nm then backing off 90* re-tighten to 10Nm.

[quote=rick130;883794]I always give taper roller bearings a small amount of pre-load and have done for twenty odd years.

Land Rover even called for it on Tdi's.
After adjusting hub nut to 50Nm then backing off 90* re-tighten to 10Nm.[/quote]

Exactly - I knew someone would come up with the right figures. Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

I used to have trouble with these seals leaking when I installed them flush or 'x' mm down. i think the problem may have been that it's almost impossible to get them dead 'square' when installing like this.

However, for the past 4 or 5 years I have used the drive flange (which is exactly the right diameter to become a 'special tool') to drive them right down to the step in the hub and have not had one leak since doing it this way.

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

Of course, I use the RTC3511 double lipped seal and ensure that the surface that the seal runs on is in good nick.

Roger

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i never have end float either....well not that i can feel, i must be doing something right as the other three wheel have no problems

I havnt had any leaks, I would say that the bearings are getting bedded in and havnt been preloaded properly when fitted so it gets a bit of angular movement which will cause a leak....in a short period of time.

I also use the twin lip seal RTC3511 (I think, thats off the top of my head) and knock it in with the drive flange as per the wheel bearing tutorial I did a while back (I think it's in there).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Bent axle?.
Regards Philip A

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Thats interesting......how will that effect a fully floating hub?

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Originally Posted by mcrover

Thats interesting......how will that effect a fully floating hub?

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Maybe he meant stub axle?

i know the stub axle is good as is the hub itself, on a side note i pick up new bearings this arvo from a bearing place as the local parts place didnt have any and im a bit far from rover craft atm and i must sat they look a lot stronger than the last lot they have the same part number but are made here not in japan and they look a hell of a lot stronger