Thread: hub seals

I used to have trouble with these seals leaking when I installed them flush or 'x' mm down. i think the problem may have been that it's almost impossible to get them dead 'square' when installing like this.

However, for the past 4 or 5 years I have used the drive flange (which is exactly the right diameter to become a 'special tool') to drive them right down to the step in the hub and have not had one leak since doing it this way.

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

Of course, I use the RTC3511 double lipped seal and ensure that the surface that the seal runs on is in good nick.

Roger

Originally Posted by Xtreme

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

I've always wondered about this.

What other opinions do we have about bearing preload?

Originally Posted by Dougal

I've always wondered about this.

What other opinions do we have about bearing preload?

I always give taper roller bearings a small amount of pre-load and have done for twenty odd years.

Land Rover even called for it on Tdi's.
After adjusting hub nut to 50Nm then backing off 90* re-tighten to 10Nm.

[quote=rick130;883794]I always give taper roller bearings a small amount of pre-load and have done for twenty odd years.

Land Rover even called for it on Tdi's.
After adjusting hub nut to 50Nm then backing off 90* re-tighten to 10Nm.[/quote]

Exactly - I knew someone would come up with the right figures. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Xtreme

I used to have trouble with these seals leaking when I installed them flush or 'x' mm down. i think the problem may have been that it's almost impossible to get them dead 'square' when installing like this.

However, for the past 4 or 5 years I have used the drive flange (which is exactly the right diameter to become a 'special tool') to drive them right down to the step in the hub and have not had one leak since doing it this way.

Also, on advice from a bearing expert, I don't give the bearings any end float - just nip them up and leave them at that. No problems on mine and numerous friends cars that I've converted to oil fed wheel bearings.

Of course, I use the RTC3511 double lipped seal and ensure that the surface that the seal runs on is in good nick.

Roger

i never have end float either....well not that i can feel, i must be doing something right as the other three wheel have no problems

I havnt had any leaks, I would say that the bearings are getting bedded in and havnt been preloaded properly when fitted so it gets a bit of angular movement which will cause a leak....in a short period of time.

I also use the twin lip seal RTC3511 (I think, thats off the top of my head) and knock it in with the drive flange as per the wheel bearing tutorial I did a while back (I think it's in there).

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Bent axle?.
Regards Philip A

Thats interesting......how will that effect a fully floating hub?

Originally Posted by mcrover

Thats interesting......how will that effect a fully floating hub?

Maybe he meant stub axle?