Removing axle from county CV joint?

Hi Dave
It doesn't move in or out at all (locked solid) someone said you can take them apart without an angle grinder, is this true??
Otherwise dad is keen to find out what is wrong with it via the angle grinder:twisted:

CHEERS TIM.

Heres an Army EMEI on how to disassemble the CV and replace the balls.

you can get them apart without damage but if its damaged (cracked) its not worth doing.

there should be a little in out movement of the axle (a few thou).

the last one that I saw that cracked the outer shell had cracked from internal stress.. (near as we were able to work out)

the axle had twisted inside the center part (which is why It couldnt be gotten apart even with the FBH and a puller) this had expanded the center part which forced the balls outwards and that put a series of cracks into the outer casing.

Oddly the cracks turned up on the back of all the thicker parts of the CV in a near perfect ring but not in the shallow part (of the outer casing) where the balls sat.

ran fine in a straight line but clicked more than a school yard of teenage girls with any steering input. before we finished the trip the axle broke off on the diff end which permitted the use of the abuseomatic toolage.

Im sort of into post failure analysis as a "keeps me amused" hobby which is why I asked. I don't like a non repeatable failure mode so if yours has done a similar thing then its not a one off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you can get them apart without damage but if its damaged (cracked) its not worth doing.

there should be a little in out movement of the axle (a few thou).

the last one that I saw that cracked the outer shell had cracked from internal stress.. (near as we were able to work out)

the axle had twisted inside the center part (which is why It couldnt be gotten apart even with the FBH and a puller) this had expanded the center part which forced the balls outwards and that put a series of cracks into the outer casing.

Oddly the cracks turned up on the back of all the thicker parts of the CV in a near perfect ring but not in the shallow part (of the outer casing) where the balls sat.

ran fine in a straight line but clicked more than a school yard of teenage girls with any steering input. before we finished the trip the axle broke off on the diff end which permitted the use of the abuseomatic toolage.

Im sort of into post failure analysis as a "keeps me amused" hobby which is why I asked. I don't like a non repeatable failure mode so if yours has done a similar thing then its not a one off.

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That sounds more like it to me;)
Where not even shore if the crack came from hitting it with the FBH, so that sounds quite likely, we'll pull/cut it apart and see what happened;)
I'll let you know!!

CHEERS TIM.

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Originally Posted by Bearman

Heres an Army EMEI on how to disassemble the CV and replace the balls.

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Thanks Bearman:thumbsup:

OK Question????

What is a Genuine County CV worth now days...

Ive been told NEW are $1000, not $100 but $1k


That makes 2nd hand ones worth ................ at least $300 each...

Dont live in the illusion that the ones that you buy on ebay are the same quality as the originals.
Its quite common to hear people mouthing off as to how weak they are but they buy rubbish

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sclarke

OK Question????

What is a Genuine County CV worth now days...

Ive been told NEW are $1000, not $100 but $1k


That makes 2nd hand ones worth ................ at least $300 each...

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Yeah good question it would be nice to know now we've broken one:o

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djam1

Dont live in the illusion that the ones that you buy on ebay are the same quality as the originals.
Its quite common to hear people mouthing off as to how weak they are but they buy rubbish

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I'm Talking GENUINE... Not after market...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by long stroke

Yeah good question it would be nice to know now we've broken one:o

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Good thing i have 2 spares....

might just have to sell them..