Thread: Series 3 electrical help !! Urgent!!!

Hi Phoenix, not enough info yet but it does sound like an alternator related problem.

Just out of curiosity, do you know if the motor is earthed, not sure of the usual set up on yours but it’s a common problem when a motor is changed ( LR or otherwise ) that the earth may not be replaced properly.

The motor has 2 earths, well, I think the motor. The bellhousing has one earth strap to the crossmember, and a 2nd one to another bell housing bolt that I think was for the holden, but I figured the more earths the merrier. Apparetnly there is supposed to be one from the engine mount to the chassis rail which I am missing, but i didn't worry due to the other 2. but if you think that could be it I'll find one to add.

I've no multimeter with me to test anything today, but a battery charger has been sourced for the day so I can put it on the charger during the day, and tonight to keep me going for now.

I would imagine that the earths you have, even if not sufficient, you should be getting some charge.

Need that multi meter and then sort out where the problems.

Ok, 14 + V over the battery with the motor running, which I believe means the altenator isn't the problem. Seems to be charging now, but a host of other problems. no brake lights at times, no marker lights at times

Seems lucas is having his merry way with me. Time to fix some bodgy electrics.

It's not helped by the fact that I seem to only have 3 fuses instead of 4. I think I need to find a replacement fuse box and start again, or the clip missing from fuse No.2

anybody got any?

the current fuse box seems to be wired wrong anyway

Ok, an interesting turn of events overnight

THe last few days i've been fixing dodgy connectors, loose wires and disconnected wires in my 36 minute lunchbreak.

Yesterday at lunchtime I left the headlights on, and nobody told me

Fortunately I got a jumpstart, but I didn't seem to have a lot of spark. I got up this morning early to check the fan belt, and it was very very loose again, so I tighterend it, again. I think the belt may be stretching as the altenator didn't move easily to tension it. there sems to be a little wobble in the water pump pulley as well. oh great!

So tried to start it, nix. I couldn't even manage to jump start it. maybe the belt was a bit tight I don't know. But despite many small niggles through the years, for the first time Grover failed to proceed and I had to take the x-trail to work leaving the wife no car for the day.

I'll ghet a new battery in mu lunch break today and take it home as I couldn't get it to charge. then to retest the altenator. if the altenator is working ok it should be 14V + over the battery, and be able to run the engine wtih the negative terminal disconnected, is that right?

I think that is correct but you will have to start the engine with battery and alternator connected as an alternator will not self excite but once going should be ok to remove battery.

I would get some advice about disconnecting an alternator from the battery while the motor is running.

I’ve never tried it as it’s supposed to be a quick way to stuff the alternator, but as I said, I’ve never tried it so I could be wrong.

Ok..........a few checks
Now this very hard doing it without being there for my self.
First thing is to check the battery is good by load test or try another battery of a known condition.
Turn the head lights on and get hold of a volt meter.
Place one one of the voltmeter lead to the negative side of the battery terminal(lead post ) and the other to the engine block on a clean metal surface .
The volt meter will read voltage drop over the earth circult and it shouldnt be more than .5 of a volt.(can be tested whisle cranlking too)
All this is for a neg earth system.
If more you most likely have a earth strap voltage drop problem.
Earth voltage drops do weird things like operate other lights and things when they are not switch on and things not working.


Start vehicle and note battery voltage from battery standing , then cranking and then with 2000 rpm engine speed.
A standing battery fully charged should be something like 13.8 volt and while cranking drop down to 11.5 volt.
If the altenater is charging the altenater should slowly take the voltage from 13.8 after cranking the engine to start it to 14.2 volts at which point the altenator will stop charging the battery.

points to note.
A poleling out starter motor can drag down a fully charged battery during cranking and give the effect of a flat battery( the starter will get hot quickly if this happening and is caused by worn starter bushes)

Check the fuses with a test light and not by eye as the old glass tube type fuses can still look OK but the solider in side them as corroded it or the brass contact between the fuse and fuse holder can be poor a cause voltage drops.(give the fuse contacts a clean up)

Any electrical connection should have a voltage drop of more than .2 of a volt and this is measured by a volt meter by puttting the end of one lead to each side of the electrical connection being checked.
I hope some of this helps.
Remember you cannot check the electrics correctly untill you get a level playing field and start with a fully charge battery.