2.25 Petrol Servicing - A Dummies Guide...

Thanks Pat and Kev.

I haven't been able to fault the Webber - no issues at all and the power and economy are no less than one would expect for the vehicle.

Can't say I have had issues with vaporising either. :)


Paul - glad it is useful to someone else... ;)

I tried the webber years ago and it wasn't as good as the zenith.Mine lost power and also stopped at the lights on a hot day.I have been yearning for another 2.25 swb,I love the series models. Pat

One other thing - what oil for a non-synchro box?

Penrite recommends their MildEP Gear Oil for the box and transfer case, but another member on here whos judgement I trust has previously recommended MildEP for Diffs and swivels but said it was not the best in the box...

For a series III it recommends Manual Gear Oil 80 or Hypoid 80W90...

Any suggestions for flushing the block?

I tried to do mine today, before I replaced the water pump.

The drain valve on the block only weeps, suggesting a large scale deposit in the block, to me.

Should I knock out the welsh plugs, and give it a blast? or maybe put some some caustic through her?

Remember that your box has phospher bronze bushes so don't use any oil that contains sulfur.Castrol is what I always used. Pat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by d@rk51d3

Any suggestions for flushing the block?

I tried to do mine today, before I replaced the water pump.

The drain valve on the block only weeps, suggesting a large scale deposit in the block, to me.

Should I knock out the welsh plugs, and give it a blast? or maybe put some some caustic through her?

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I always recommend a specialist clean for that reason.I would put it back together and get them to do it,they have the know how. Pat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by d@rk51d3

Any suggestions for flushing the block?

I tried to do mine today, before I replaced the water pump.

The drain valve on the block only weeps, suggesting a large scale deposit in the block, to me.

Should I knock out the welsh plugs, and give it a blast? or maybe put some some caustic through her?

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I removed the tap and then used some wire to agitate the sludge blocking the hole. Once you have it moving, you'd be surprised what comes out. As it does not have aluminium heads or significant ally bit in contact with the coolant, it is unlikely caustic soda will help unless there has been oil in the coolant (leaking headgasket or sometimes soluble oil has been used as a corrosion preventer in years gone by). But if you do use caustic soda, be cautious about its effect on alloy welsh plugs. I would be more inclined to use an industrial strength detergent.

John

Well I did a bit on Ambrose today, but LVS couldn't source 1 item that I had ordered so they withheld the whole order. :mad:

Today I had a crack at it, and did the tappet clearances, flushed the "coolant", cleaned up and refilled the aircleaner, re-oiled the front diff, greased the UJs, topped up the steering box and listened to music. B)

BUT...

The engine runs much the same, although a few of the clearances were a little out. Now though, something is knocking away merrily in there - I think I stuffed up the clearance on one of them. :( Try again tomorrow...

AND...

I drained 11L of MUD out of the cooling system and topped it up with nice fresh coolant.

I ran the engine for a little while to circulate it all through and when I turned it off it sprayed out the cap. :( I forgot to bleed it through the drain taps first, would this do that?

I bled it and topped it up again, and ran it for a while with my hand on the top hose. It stayed cool for about five minutes then quickly got quite warm - I assume this was the thermostat doing its thing. When I stopped it didn't spray this time but it was quite warm. I hope it is happy now...

Also, I found a perfect tool for opening drain plugs on diffs - a pig-tail from a tailgate! It fits perfectly and you can slot a screwdriver through the loops of the pig tail for extra leverage!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PAT303

Remember that your box has phospher bronze bushes so don't use any oil that contains sulfur.Castrol is what I always used. Pat

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Good point Pat. I use Castrol VMX80 (GL4 spec) in my SIII 'box. Was warned not to use EPX 80W90 or any other GL5 spec oil in Series gearboxes. EPX 80W90 is fine for the transfer case, diffs and swivel housings.

Shonky, another spot to check is the oil level in the steering relay box. If it's all leaked out years ago the steering can be very heavy. It's a few years since I did it but I think the drill was to take out one of the top cover bolts and dribble 80W90 into the hole until it won't take any more. Someone will correct me if this is not correct.

Also, if your front hubs have free-wheeling hubs, engage them for a few kms every few weeks so the swivel oil can splash lubricate the top Railco bushes (and prevents the front prop shaft from seizing/wearing unevenly).

Ian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leo109

Good point Pat. I use Castrol VMX80 (GL4 spec) in my SIII 'box. Was warned not to use EPX 80W90 or any other GL5 spec oil in Series gearboxes. EPX 80W90 is fine for the transfer case, diffs and swivel housings.

Shonky, another spot to check is the oil level in the steering relay box. If it's all leaked out years ago the steering can be very heavy. It's a few years since I did it but I think the drill was to take out one of the top cover bolts and dribble 80W90 into the hole until it won't take any more. Someone will correct me if this is not correct.

Also, if your front hubs have free-wheeling hubs, engage them for a few kms every few weeks so the swivel oil can splash lubricate the top Railco bushes (and prevents the front prop shaft from seizing/wearing unevenly).

Ian

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For the steering relay take two of the top bolts out to let the air out as you fill - and start by taking a bottom one out to see if there is anything in it first might be useful. A pump type oil can is very helpful for gertting the oil in.

John