Defender, new suspension now has vibration

Yep also thought of the uni's, that could be it or the driveshaft seem to be the most popular suggestions

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Originally Posted by MacFamily

Could be a long shot but now that you have lifted it maybe the front prop shaft maybe on a greater angle making a vibration, or maybe flogged uni joints which were not noticed untill you lifted it.

Other then that NOZ iam freash out of ideas.Iam sure a TD5 expert will be along shortly.

Have ya got any pics NOZ since you lifted/added new rubber cause thats a nice defender LOVE that blue..

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No pics as yet only had it fitted today, once I have the vibration sorted I will have some time to take some pics

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MacFamily

Could be a long shot but now that you have lifted it maybe the front prop shaft maybe on a greater angle making a vibration, or maybe flogged uni joints which were not noticed untill you lifted it.

Other then that NOZ iam freash out of ideas.Iam sure a TD5 expert will be along shortly.

Have ya got any pics NOZ since you lifted/added new rubber cause thats a nice defender LOVE that blue..

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MacFamily

Could be a long shot but now that you have lifted it maybe the front prop shaft maybe on a greater angle making a vibration, or maybe flogged uni joints which were not noticed untill you lifted it.

Other then that NOZ iam freash out of ideas.Iam sure a TD5 expert will be along shortly.

Have ya got any pics NOZ since you lifted/added new rubber cause thats a nice defender LOVE that blue..

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x2
Once lifted the unis run at different angles and tend to flog out earlier than expected;)
So check them unis:cool:

I love this forum! I am troubleshooting this exact problem which occurs in exactly the same 80 -> 60km/h speed range.

I believe it is the UJs on the rear prop that are worn and the lift has revealed the problem. When I dropped the rear height an inch or two (air suspension) the vibration reduced noticeably. I know it's not the front because I experienced it with the front prop removed.

Hope to have a definitive answer this weekend after I replace the bearings and spiders.

Chris

Hi,

Saw no reference to road surface that was driven on nor other details so just a few questions from left field driven by a similar experience with the same tyres on a very different vehicle. No lift, just the same tyres.

Coincidence can be a real bu66er when trying to find a problem.

What surface is the vibration felt on? Hard, soft? All?
Does the tread pattern differ from the previous set on the def? STTs are the aggressive MT one right?

We fitted these tyres onto a T/Prado VX and got a vibration on deceleration but in a lower spreed range. Turned out that the tread changing shape on deceleration on a hard surface did it.

Check on a softer surface or different surface to the one the vibration is felt on. Change the PSI in the tyre a few points up or down.

Just a thought... and if it turns out to be a similar problem to what I had in the work truck (Prado)... cheap to fix. Vibration dissappered after about 20,000kms ;)

Phil

G'day guys had this problem when I did a suspension lift 2" lovells (5years ago)I removed the front shaft and no luck it still had the vibrating issue I finally tracked it down to being the front coil springs I took them out and wrapped the top layer of the coil with black PVC spiral wrap and put them back in bingo problem solved this was also a common problem with (I think) the ford xf or xd ford use to coat the coil springs with plastic. best of luck hope you sort out what the problem is

My money would be on the front prop.

If youve used King Springs you'll be on a generous plus 2". I would guess that the UJ's are binding in there new found increased travel. When offroading under greater articulation the prop jaws could also clash and go pop.

You should either use a double cardon prop specially made for a Defender T/Box or a Disco one and swap the T/Bpx front flange.

Also, have you changed the radius arms for castor corrected ones, or at least put castor corrected bushes in your existing radius arms? If not, you should.

It seems that the wheels were not balanced correctly, rebalanced today problem solved.

Thanks for the radius arm tip, will have this done Friday.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

My money would be on the front prop.

If youve used King Springs you'll be on a generous plus 2". I would guess that the UJ's are binding in there new found increased travel. When offroading under greater articulation the prop jaws could also clash and go pop.

You should either use a double cardon prop specially made for a Defender T/Box or a Disco one and swap the T/Bpx front flange.

Also, have you changed the radius arms for castor corrected ones, or at least put castor corrected bushes in your existing radius arms? If not, you should.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by NOZ

Thanks for the radius arm tip, will have this done Friday.

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Only do the caster correction if your steering is vauge or wandering since the lift. Caster correction will put even larger angles into your front prop shaft and possibly cause vibration again. I have a 2" lift in my truck and have no problems without caster correction.