Clutch Fork

Great timing on this post guys! I just put my rear main seal and flywheel on and I think I'll brace the arm after reading this. The sticker on the bag it came in reads "All Makes 4x4" the 95 130 has 214000 on the clock and the old one still looks fine.

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Originally Posted by abaddonxi

http://www.4muddyfeet.com/shop/images/ftc2957hd.jpg

Now that's a clever idea.


One of the suggested solutions is to weld a washer on the back of the pivot.

Simon

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thats good but i prefer the washer.

Thanks for all the replies guys, no doubt a braced clutch fork is the way to go it.

I had it fixed 'professionally' when it happened by a LR work shop. It's got me buggered how a large very well known Land Rover works shop south of Adelaide does not supply a braced clutch fork or at least offer one as an option when it appears that its a common re-occuring problem. I suppose it's one way of generating extra business.

Next question do I have to drop the box right out or can I slide it back some hoe to carry out repairs/mods?

if you have all the right bits and tools ,no you can do it without dropping the box right out...

4x long threaded rod sections are needed to support the front of the box...

theres not much in it tho, IMho its less hassle to drop the box.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Lets just hope we don't have to do play the 'slip the gearbox back on long guides' trick anytime in the foreseeable future. :wallbash:

Hang on, aren't you getting rid of the CC ?

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That's the plan.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

thats good but i prefer the washer.

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Someone in an earlier thread suggested that welding the washer on might weaken the fork around the weld.

Simon

no less than welding the cross bar on.

if you get a big enough washer it goes on in the same way as the cross brace is pictured and is welded around the outside not near the middle. I also like to (If I have the gear on hand and Im not doing a bush fix) build up the voids between the washer and the fork by brazing.

Yep, as the others have said, it's not uncommon.

The fork on my Defender has been braced for that very reason.

M

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

no less than welding the cross bar on.

if you get a big enough washer it goes on in the same way as the cross brace is pictured and is welded around the outside not near the middle. I also like to (If I have the gear on hand and Im not doing a bush fix) build up the voids between the washer and the fork by brazing.

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I suspect I'm going to sound dumb but I can't picture what you are saying. They spoke of using a washer in the previous threads and it confused me at the time too. In my mind a washer is shaped like a doughnut and when the fork fails the pin will keep going straight through the hole in the washer???

Actually I'd prefer a cross brace like the pic Simon linked too, it keeps the heat away from the ball when welding that may exacerbate the metal fatigue which is what causes the failures. They don't actually wear through, the pivot literally punches through the fork.
I originally thought about brazing a cup onto the back of the ball but after a discussion with JC he suggested the extra heat might not be a good idea in that area and after having a think about it I agree.