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Thread: Bead Locks any good

  1. #11
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    not legal unless youve got a second hole in the rim from factory, you can pull it off on some split rims if you get the right inflatable bead lock but they are as rare as rocking horse poo over here.

    the ones that work really well on split rims are a nylon webby thing that you slide over the rim, under the tube liner and between the beads, bitch to fit but work really well until you decide you want to remove the tyre to fix a flat in the field.

    you can also get a split version of it to go on a tubeless tyre but they are the penultimate bitch to fit then balance.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  2. #12
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camo View Post
    Nah Pete

    I heard from a mate of a mate that they aren't legal

    Something to do with modification of the wheel (hole for the second stem)

    Camo
    VicRoads say it's OK to widen wheels by welding two half wheels together! So modifing wheels is OK. I don't know what the Australan Wheel and Tyre hand book has to say on the matter.
    Part 8 in the link below covers wheels and tyres.

    http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rd...340/0/VSI8.pdf

    Tony

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    VicRoads say it's OK to widen wheels by welding two half wheels together! So modifing wheels is OK. I don't know what the Australan Wheel and Tyre hand book has to say on the matter.
    Part 8 in the link below covers wheels and tyres.

    http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rd...340/0/VSI8.pdf

    Tony
    yep providing its done to some very stringent standards and done in an approved shop.

    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    As I understood it, the internal beadlock is legal, but the drilling of the rim is not allowed unless it is done by one of a few approved rim manufacturers/repairers - and that this club of people is a bit of a closed shop.
    like he said.

    there are other obscure areas that can be interpreted as its illegal little things like the vehicle safety check bit that hints at unmodified and undamgaged rims being a requirement.

    or from the rims and tyres specification and profile ADR which makes a mention of

    the rim shall not have drillings or weldings. which is a bit odd because they dont make mention of how the hell you make your steel rim without drilling it for the valve OR welding the center in in the first place short of casting it and good luck balancing that up.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #14
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    yep providing its done to some very stringent standards and done in an approved shop.
    It makes no reference to an approved shop only to "recognised engineering" standards


    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    there are other obscure areas that can be interpreted as its illegal little things like the vehicle safety check bit that hints at unmodified and undamgaged rims being a requirement.
    By this do you mean the roadworthy certificate that is required to sell a car in Victoria and whatever equivalent scheme you have in QLD?

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    or from the rims and tyres specification and profile ADR which makes a mention of

    the rim shall not have drillings or weldings. which is a bit odd because they dont make mention of how the hell you make your steel rim without drilling it for the valve OR welding the center in in the first place short of casting it and good luck balancing that up.
    Which ADR?
    24 seems to make no mention of modifying rims. ADR 20 is for safety rims which don't apply to me, but will to others, unless my beadlocks that retain a deflated tyre means I'm now running safety rims.

    I'm not trying to pick a fight here, I would just like to know if there is some ADR or other guideline, fedral or Victorian that I'm in breach of.

    Tony

  5. #15
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by OZ Landy View Post
    Please let me know if you are using internal bead locks and if they are any good.
    Do they affect the balancing of the wheel or any other side effects?
    Do you need them at all.

    Thanks guys for your advise.
    And in reply to the original question.
    Yes I think they are good.
    They make no difference to balancing.
    Need, that I can't answer, I fitted them for

    1) the resson there sold, to stop the deads unseating at low presures.
    2) I hope they will stop dirt building up under the beads and making probs
    3) I don't have saftey bead rims, the beadlocks let me run without tubes, I hate tubes.
    4) I think they make for a safer wheel and tyre package.

    That said, I bet I"ll be cursing then when I get a flat

    Tony

  6. #16
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    I have them, not a big fan, if you play rough, they still lodge filth in the beads and you get slow leaks you never losse the bead, but still have to unseat the tyre to clean the bead surface, or slow leaks all round

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    I have them, not a big fan, if you play rough, they still lodge filth in the beads and you get slow leaks you never losse the bead, but still have to unseat the tyre to clean the bead surface, or slow leaks all round
    Do they prevent spinning the tyre on the rim.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  8. #18
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    I would go and speak to the local rta i guess they would or should be able answer this question. But as long as you aren't running your tyres too low and are careful when they are down i wouldnt imagine you would need them if they are going to be a hassle with the law.

    James.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    It makes no reference to an approved shop only to "recognised engineering" standards




    By this do you mean the roadworthy certificate that is required to sell a car in Victoria and whatever equivalent scheme you have in QLD?



    Which ADR?
    24 seems to make no mention of modifying rims. ADR 20 is for safety rims which don't apply to me, but will to others, unless my beadlocks that retain a deflated tyre means I'm now running safety rims.

    I'm not trying to pick a fight here, I would just like to know if there is some ADR or other guideline, fedral or Victorian that I'm in breach of.

    Tony
    Assuming you go by the letter and intent of the law... (yeah we ALL do that...)

    any place (single worker at home OR a professional shop) that has passed the required accreditation for the engineering standard required can do the work AND it should be easily legal, however the buerocracy likes its cut so to be accredited for a certain type of work the company pays the government a fee, they get some assesment stuff done (read pay more money ) and they become an approved or accredited place so you getting the mod work done is just a case of paying them and handing in some paperwork which will pass with flying colours.

    IF they arent accredited you have to go to all the effort of proving the work meets the engineering standard which means going to an approved engineering shop (same deal as above) and having the work inspected and then certified.

    you can usually get a list of approved and acredited places by doing the phone thing with the relevent section of the RTA /vicroads/Queensland transport/ your other vogon run transport agency.


    ADR's have a nasty habit of referencing OTHER guiding regulations...

    these regulations then reference other documents.. heres an example, my internets playing up ATM but from memory.....

    ADR 24 which covers alternate rims (Its probabley a different one but lets just say its 24) references a document which is something like the ASRA (australian Standardised rims association) this document (IF you can EVER get your hands on it) references several other documents including Metalurgical Standards, Engineering standard and Test equipment standards. Whats bitchy is the ADR's are online, the other standards and referenced documentation usually isn't.

    Try this...

    you buy a rim, say from me. you get pinged by an absolute freckled peanut snapper of an inspector and he wants to know if the test rig used to asses that particular rims design meets the requirements as laid down in the Test equipment standards for Rims to be certified for on road vehicles inspected IAW the ADR's if you cant point out a certification, design or manufactures stamp that indicates that its passed design testing on suitabley certified test rigs then you have to get the rim engineer inspected. Fun isnt it.

    In the real world all manufactured rims have on them somewhere a manufacturers stamp and batch/serial/model number (its often on the inside or on really bling rims inside he bead well) which will have associated with it the relevant info. Mostly when an inspector looks at a rim hes just looking to make sure its round, not obviously back yard repaired, not cracked and more or less true.

    If your rim is modified from the designed standard recognized by all the crap above (ie you drilled a hole in it to mount the valve for the bead locker) Technically you can be done for it if you don't have an engineer cert OR you cant prove the work was done in an accredited shop (a receipt from said shop is usually sufficient)


    heres the kicker, 90% of the guys inspecting vehicles wouldn't know their sphincters from a gudgen pin locating circlip If I went to the effort of pulling one out of an engine in front of them dacking them giving them a large mirror a parts catalog and an anatomical schematic of a human.

    Heres some of the things Ive had to correct inspectors on..

    It cant be a 6 cyinder, ITs got 8 spark plug leads.
    Im not surprised the vehicle Failed a front wheel brake test, Its here for historic certification for rear wheel brakes only.
    That cant be the paperwork for my car, youve got it listed as a turbo charged 6 cylinder diesel landcruiser ute, Its a 4 pot petrol landrover wagon. AND you have the vin number wrong and the plate number backwards.
    Of course the reverse lights dont work, It doesnt have them.

    the point of that is...

    odds on you'll get it past most inspectors but it might bite you insurance wise.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
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    What about the staun wheels? they have the second hole drilled in them from factory. Dont want to see the price though

    4wd Accessories Australia
    Cheers,

    Ben.

    Team W4 - WEBSITE


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