Thread: Fitting 16mm LR studs in a trailer hub

Thanks Brian. I imagine 5/8 would do.
I need 1/2in to fit the drills we have and I don't have access to a lathe to turn any thing down.

Originally Posted by Utemad

Just got quoted $3 per stud (no nut). So $30 to do the trailer isn't too bad. What did you pay Foz?
Also Foz how did you get the old studs out? Press or hammer?

I rested the flange on a socket so that the stud had free board behind it and then wound a wheel nut down about half way and tapped the nut with a hammer. They are normally only tight for the first little bit. Two taps should see them free. Then undo the wheel nut and fall out.

Brian saved the day with a couple of appropriate sized drill bits. Thanks Brian.

Now my only trouble is getting the studs. Can't get to FWD during opening hours with my current job. Will have to wait until I take a day off unless I find somewhere else in the meantime.

Well I decided to leave work early and get the studs today.

After drilling and fitting two studs I have found something out.

When the steel Disco1 rim is fitted to the hub and the nuts done up, it appears that the studs are too short. There is 3mm of nut not used which equates to about two threads.

Thinking that the braked hubs I'm using are thicker than the unbraked hubs I have, which might be the reason I've never read this before, I measured them. The braked hubs are 13mm and the unbraked are 15mm inc paint. So probably the same under the paint.

Is this what everyone who has done this has found?

There should still be 15.5mm of nut in contact with the stud. I personally think this is enough on a non driven <1t trailer axle although it is braked.

The studs I'm using are aftermarket FRC5926 to suit RRC and Disco1.
Are there other 16mm studs that are longer?

I think you can use 100series studs (or is that for d2 rims)


Adam

Originally Posted by Utemad

Well I decided to leave work early and get the studs today.

After drilling and fitting two studs I have found something out.

When the steel Disco1 rim is fitted to the hub and the nuts done up, it appears that the studs are too short. There is 3mm of nut not used which equates to about two threads.

Thinking that the braked hubs I'm using are thicker than the unbraked hubs I have, which might be the reason I've never read this before, I measured them. The braked hubs are 13mm and the unbraked are 15mm inc paint. So probably the same under the paint.

Is this what everyone who has done this has found?

There should still be 15.5mm of nut in contact with the stud. I personally think this is enough on a non driven <1t trailer axle although it is braked.

The studs I'm using are aftermarket FRC5926 to suit RRC and Disco1.
Are there other 16mm studs that are longer?

this help?
progress!
finished the trailer hubs today.
i had bought blank 10'' electric drums because i wasnt waiting 8weeks ''maybe'' for the LR ones to arrive!
and they would have the wrong size stud anyway.

I wanted to be able to run any LR S1 disco/RRC and defender rim, so to do this meant ide need a locating spigot in the drum face to centralize the alloy wheels.
2 bits of hollow bar later and abit of maching and the spigots were done.
while they were in the lathe i got the PCD marked to the face so i could drill the holes myself.

bearings are installed, just need to finish flipping the trailer rims and get some tyres fitted and she be rollable

cheers phil



the last pick shows the LR studs countersunk into the breaking face of the drum.

cheers phil

Originally Posted by agrojnr

I think you can use 100series studs (or is that for d2 rims)


Adam

Yep D2 14mm same as 100series and 08/09 Commodore.

Baz.

Thinking that the braked hubs I'm using are thicker than the unbraked hubs I have, which might be the reason I've never read this before, I measured them. The braked hubs are 13mm and the unbraked are 15mm inc paint. So probably the same under the paint.

Is this what everyone who has done this has found?

I wrote this up over a year ago, when I did the same.
You just countersink the studs until you get the correct emergent length.

I have mine so that they are to the end of the nut. All I did was measure the amount emerged on my RRC hub and calculated the countersink depth from that. Heaven knows there is enough material.
Regards Philip A