TD5 Injector and ECU Wiring Looms

I've seen a few use and appropriate Locite on the rear of the pins (inside block side of connector) with success and as for the outer seals, that was never the problem. The inner plastic shroud, cloudy white part covering the pins hardens, causing a leak between this part and the hardening back plastic. Pressure and gravity do the rest.

Given the wires are all exposed in the oil right into the injector, its more about the the tin plated pins connecting to the brass/pins, dissimilar metals and oil never mix over time either.

Any sealant designed to operate inside engine (temp/oil resistent) will do so long as the mating surfaces are clean, thus the reason why a good amount of time ensuring this connector is clean before application.

Cheers

Hello new to this forum can anyone help i have a 01 d2 td5 starts great when you put your foot down no power but black smoke out the back oil in the ecu has been cleaned out and tested but still problem thanks

Hi BlackRug,

Welcome to the forum - I see it's your first post!

You'd be better off starting a new thread with your own topic, seeing that it probably is not a wiring loom issue.

Also, you could search the forum for "TD5 power loss" or "TD5 lack of power", etc and that will turn up a few threads.

Cheers
David

usually the MAF. unplug it and see what happens. it will do something or nothing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mousie

I've seen a few use and appropriate Locite on the rear of the pins (inside block side of connector) with success and as for the outer seals, that was never the problem. The inner plastic shroud, cloudy white part covering the pins hardens, causing a leak between this part and the hardening back plastic. Pressure and gravity do the rest.

Given the wires are all exposed in the oil right into the injector, its more about the the tin plated pins connecting to the brass/pins, dissimilar metals and oil never mix over time either.

Any sealant designed to operate inside engine (temp/oil resistent) will do so long as the mating surfaces are clean, thus the reason why a good amount of time ensuring this connector is clean before application.

Cheers

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Sorry but you could clearly see on mine where the o rings had worn and where the oil had passed the o rings. The white piece you speak about was and is still fine, no oil between this and the outer black shroud. I still have it in my spares box, just need to get some new o rings.

The oil in mine didn't come through the O rings, it seeped all the way from the actual injector plugs inside the actual wires using capilliary action, so it was able to bypass all the seals and seep straight into the top of the wires in the ECU loom.
Someone on the forum suggested a reall good fix to stop the oil at least getting as far as the ECU, and that was strip all the wires just after the plug on the ECU loom, right near the engine, clean the cores REALLY well to remove all the oil using some contact cleaner, then simply tin the wires with solder, then clean again with solvent to remove soldering flux, then insulate the wires with a "liquid electrical tape" which is available at some boating suppliers.
This provides a barrier that the oil simply can't get past.
Next time I replace the loom I'm going to do it both inside the head, just before the plug, and where I mentioned above.

.....i'm sure the debate will continue though.....;)


Fraser

I think it may be apparent there is more than one issue with these looms. Mine travelled down the outside of the wires, past the orings and then pooled inside the connector and entered the wiring in the main harness, much the same way as I cleaned it.