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Thread: Disc Pad Replacement

  1. #1
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    Disc Pad Replacement

    Disc pads on 2000 TD5 Discovery ( 250k) are due for replacement. Opinion appreciated on whether to have rotors skimmed or allow new pads to bed into existing rotor surface. Mechanic at local service shop suggested as matter of course to take rotors off for skimming. Question - does this affect 'balance' of hub/wheel assembly etc after 'things' are unbolted and re-bolted ? Do rotors go back onto same wheel or are they completely interchangeable ? Does the 're-positioning' onto different wheel studs affect integrity of balance or other issues ? How much 'skimming' might make the rotors too thin to be legally put back onto vehicle ? First set of replacement pads since new. No grinding noises or any negative issues. Just thought I would replace pads before any issues arose !! Appreciate thoughts and opinions !!!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by CleanTD5 View Post
    Disc pads on 2000 TD5 Discovery ( 250k) are due for replacement. Opinion appreciated on whether to have rotors skimmed or allow new pads to bed into existing rotor surface. Mechanic at local service shop suggested as matter of course to take rotors off for skimming. Question - does this affect 'balance' of hub/wheel assembly etc after 'things' are unbolted and re-bolted ? Do rotors go back onto same wheel or are they completely interchangeable ? Does the 're-positioning' onto different wheel studs affect integrity of balance or other issues ? How much 'skimming' might make the rotors too thin to be legally put back onto vehicle ? First set of replacement pads since new. No grinding noises or any negative issues. Just thought I would replace pads before any issues arose !! Appreciate thoughts and opinions !!!
    have you realy done 250k on one set of brake pads,

    just me but i dont beleave in *skimming* discs, if there is to much of a lip then there very close to been buggerd so replace them, cos iv seen discs shater from been to thin,, if they are well with in min thickness, just let the pad do its own thing an let it bed in its self, , but thats just me, an if never had nosiey brakes or anything, just dont for get your grease on the mounts for the pads,

  3. #3
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    thoughts and opinions----
    first one is----

    250K?!?!



    secondly, D2's are pretty picky about their pads,
    pads that squeal (and you may not find this out until after ---) induce the 3 amigoes,

    you can spend a lot on slotted rotors and u-beaut pads,,
    you WONT get to skim the discs,,
    you can buy new discs for around $70 ea, a bit more for reputable pads.

    pad and rotor change is easy-peasy. (You might need an impact screwdriver)
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #4
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    from memory...

    22mm is minimum machining thickness for the front rotors on the D2 ans 20mm is the absolute minimum. you start with 24, maybe 25mm. there is a specification for the dimensions of the rotor on either side of its internal vents but my basic rule is if it aint even or I think I might not like it then its not staying and its destined to become a support base for something.

    ideally most rotors will see you 2 pair of pads.

    IF in any doubt just buy new ones the base models are only about $80 a piece and pads are a case of take your pick.

    in answer to your other questions..

    no rotors are not sided and machining them does not make any significant difference to balance. There is the school of thought that you should keep them on the same side as they "bed" them selves into being used in a particular direction.

    I try to keep them on the same side IF I machine them not so much for that reason but because there are things that are handed and in my book if its on one side of the vehicle when it comes off thats where it should be when it goes back. (unless its a tyre for rotation which is a different kettle of fish.


    Before your rotors go for skimming get them checked for thickness, if you have any part under 22mm turf em.

    The best thing you can do is get one of the Rave CD's from incisor.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
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    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #5
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    disc pad replacement

    thankyou stig, pedro and blknight,,,,greatly appreciate your valued responses. Yes, kms are correct,,,,,owned vehicle since new, and as i don't live in a city i do a lot of country kms,,,,,without the need to use brakes ad nauseam in city traffic,,,another benefit of country living. will get rotors measured and if nearing on too thin, will use them as a paper weights and buy new. appreciate similar thoughts on 'balance' so i might even be pedantic and 'mark' them to go over same stud holes on same wheel !!! probably a few laughs out there !! appreciate your responses.

  6. #6
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    As a nearly O/T comment, my '97 tdi with just on 200k. is still on the original pads. Checked them in Jan. prior to rego. inspection they should go another 50k. Slight disc wear is noticeable, but I would say less than 0.5mm each side.
    Like the td5 mentioned, mine is a country vehicle, mainly long trips and not a lot of brake use.
    llandro

  7. #7
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    I bet yours is a manual as well,mine has almost done 70k,and they are just about shot,alot of around town ,also long trips.
    Last time i replaced a set on the other TD5 i had,i used a brand called Minto or something like that,cant remember exactly & didnt have any trouble.I didnt replace the rotors or get them skimmed.

    I wish i could get a set that dont have that black dust & also wont cause any probs.

    Let us know how you go...

  8. #8
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    Paul.
    Yes,its a manual.
    The very small amount of dust which comes out on the front wheels is a brownish tinge. Never see any on the rear's at all.
    llandro

  9. #9
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    That would be mintex,, I used them this time,,
    coal dust everywhere---


    mind you,,

    it really enhances the D2's looks when I clean them
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    That would be mintex,, I used them this time,,
    coal dust everywhere---


    mind you,,

    it really enhances the D2's looks when I clean them
    Isnt it a pain in the........



    llandro probably only gets a bit on the wheels,because its not an around town vehicle.

    Has anyone used Bendix on a D2,& if so which type of Bendix.

    I have used the standard Bendix on heaps of other types of vehicles & never had any problems

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