Checker Plate - How hard can it be?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by County4.4

Cutting aluminium

I got told once that if you reverse the blade in a circular saw it will cut alluminium.
Whilst remaking my seatbase in a series III I used to have I got sick of using the angle grinder and gave it a go.
When the blade was reversed it clogged up with bits of alli so I put the blade back in correctly.

Cuts like butter. I have sinced used an old small GMC circ saw ($30)to successfully and quickly cut 1.6mm, 2mm and even a couple of times 5mm checkerplate alli.

Wear goggles and earplugs.
For a straight cut on the wingtops -clamp a piece of timber to alli to use as a guide.

---

Yes, this is a viable method. As long as the saw is tungsten tipped you will be fine. Cutting with the back of the saw is a trick used with laminated sheet like laminex, it is done to prevent ripping/chipping the top surface. I don't believe that it would be necessary with aluminium.

I walked into a aluminium plate boat building shed and they were using tungsten tipped wood cutting saw as well as an electric wood plane (makita)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by scott oz

Answer

Ken Wright Aluminium Engineering 02 9939 6319 great bloke

---

Thanks for that. My memory is still hanging in there. :D

I made guard tops for the 2a and step treads for both it and the Countyfrom 6mm aluminium that I paid about $20 for at a clearing sale. I cut it using a standard carbide tipped blade in my circular saw. Curved corners were done with my planer, again, using standard woodworking carbide blades. Expect to get alloy shavings all over the workshop.

You can get special circular saw blades designed to cut aluminium, these have a slight negative rake on the teeth rather than the positive rake used for wood, but you can use a woodworking blade provided you take a very slow cut, with a minimum amount of blade protruding below the stop, and have the work securely clamped. I used a rigid guide to cut a straight line, and for each item, where there were two or more to be made, for the planing they were clamped together.

John

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I'll have to check out the circular saw idea. I should have thought of that

I'll have a chat to the fella who does my aluminium work this week as see what he reckons. He wanted to use 1.6mm, I didn't. I'll get a price on a sheet of 3mm or 2.5mm

Also for the finish, how much does anodising cost?

Thanks

cutting chequer plate with a jigsaw is not a problem at all.

i've bought about 6 - 8' x 4' sheets in the last year for the county and the rangie and did all the cuts with a jigsaw no problems at all.
just make sure that the material is clamped/held down well and take your time with the saw and let it do all the work i.e. dont force it forward.
you can get blades from bunnings to cut ally.
as for the anodised or powdercoat - the anodised fades at an alarming rate in the sun and looks really tired quickly where as the powdercoat if applied properly on an etch primer still looks like new after a perth summer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by taff

cutting chequer plate with a jigsaw is not a problem at all.

i've bought about 6 - 8' x 4' sheets in the last year for the county and the rangie and did all the cuts with a jigsaw no problems at all.
just make sure that the material is clamped/held down well and take your time with the saw and let it do all the work i.e. dont force it forward.
you can get blades from bunnings to cut ally.
as for the anodised or powdercoat - the anodised fades at an alarming rate in the sun and looks really tired quickly where as the powdercoat if applied properly on an etch primer still looks like new after a perth summer.

---

Hey mate

Wish I'd known about the etch primer before, then I could have done my roof rack as well. I reckon I'll go the way of the powder coat and etch primer.

I have found a powder coat called 'Bass' which is sort of a textured finish and matt.

I'll go and check out a price for aluminium tomorrow

Cutting is one problem, sills and read corner is fine, the next problem is to bend them so that they have a perfect fit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

Hey mate

Wish I'd known about the etch primer before, then I could have done my roof rack as well. I reckon I'll go the way of the powder coat and etch primer.

I have found a powder coat called 'Bass' which is sort of a textured finish and matt.

I'll go and check out a price for aluminium tomorrow

---

definately the way to go - you won't regret it.
the anodised is fine until you put it next to a powdercoated version - then you realise how crap it is - unfortunately i didn't notice until my wings were anosied and bonnet powdercoated - now i have to get my wings re-done to match.
as for shaping just buy some 16mm ply/m.d.f what ever and make a shape of your wing (jigsaw again) with the ply on end. then make another to fit into the ply you've just cut. put the ally between and clamp tightly and hey presto!

If you buy your sheet ol Ali from an Ali supplier why do you not get them to cut the pieces for you? May cost you a couple of $more but would be worth it. If you cut it yourself lube the Ali with some CRC or WD40, helps prevent clogging and helps with the cutting. I have only used a jigsaw to cut Ali but that has only been up to 2mm.

I made my wingtop protectors , i got a sheet metal place with a guilitine to to cut the long straight edge ,The rest i used a jig saw using a bit of wood as a straight edge to run the jig saw up against ,The holes for the vents i used a hole saw on the inside corners and used the jig saw for the rest , Dont stress its easy as;)