Reply With QuotePhillip
When you put the bolts back in for the starter motor ... Do you use some "anti-seize grease" on the threads ???
Mike
Swaggie
SubscriberI just finished removing my starter motor on my 92 RRC to have it checked /or replaced if too old before my next big trip.
It is a banana job as detailed here a few weeks ago.
The mounting bolts appeared "locktited" . The top one had a white residue consistent with locktite, so "freeze and release" will probably not work.
Here are a few tips for the next poor sod who has to do it.
I bought a 5/16 allen socket on Ebay in a set. They are long shank , and I found that the shaft would twist on the bottom bolt before you could break the tension in the very limited space between the chassis rail and front driveshaft. So I found a 5/16 allen key and cut a bit off it to make a short shank key that wouldn't twist ( maybe 20MM). My hex set had little grub screws holding the key in so I was able to make a new tool easily.
I couldn't get enough swing on the top bolt , so I removed the lower steering column . This gave plenty of swing and I was able to break the top bolt tension , using a 1/2 inch drive rachet handle. Of course you should make very sure that the key is completely in the bolt by tapping with a hammer or a socket handle.
The starter motor came easily upwards with the steering column removed . The manual says to withdraw below but it seems pretty impossible to do.
BTW the earth strap from body to engine mounts is on the top starter mount bolt on mine and I do not think it has ever been apart. So my belief /memory that the earth goes to the starter is correct.
Of course the joy is I noticed that the top seal on my steering box is leaking so I spent a happy hour removing the circlip and shield. You have to damage (drill ) the shield to remove it so I hope they sell them as well as the seal.
Regards Philip A
Phillip
When you put the bolts back in for the starter motor ... Do you use some "anti-seize grease" on the threads ???
Mike
Swaggie
SubscriberI think I will use medium strength Loctite ( Ah at last got the spelling looking correct).
After all they only have to be moved every 20 years or so, and they have to stay tight .
Regards Philip A
Master
I spent about 3 hours trying to remove an allen head bolt from the starter motor with an allen key about 6 moths ago.
I don't think I have ever sworn so much before (well maybe).
My neighbour laughed a lot.
Replaced the bolt with a slotted hex head.
Done up with a screw driver - then nipped with a ring spanner.
I think that's the standard fit.
Swaggie
SubscriberNo unfortunately its the 5/16 allen key that is standard on a 92 at least, but its no big deal if you invest in a 5/16 hex key socket.Done up with a screw driver - then nipped with a ring spanner.
I think that's the standard fit. 24th May 2009 09:48 PM
It only took me 3/4 hour to completely refit the starter motor and electrics with an allen key when loose and the hex key socket in a fine rachet handle to tighten.
BTW , hurray the auto electrician dismantled , cleaned and reassembled it for $100 and it is in good condition with more than half the brushes to go. In my mind a good investment for peace of mind when I am going bush in an auto.
I asked the electrician whether they use Loctite or anti seize and they use neither , just clean the threads. So I just cleaned the threads and lubed with a bit of INOX which should act as an anti seize. I used anti seize on the shield bolts to the manifold.
Regards Philip A
ForumSage
On New Years Day I removed, dismantled, cleaned, lubed and refitted the starter motor on a friends 308 powered skiboat. About a litre of water came out of itOriginally Posted by PhilipA
. Also wired the ballast resistor correctly in the ignition circuit.
All for free.
I don't charge enough.
.... Could not agree more with you on that one Phillip
All for free.
I don't charge enoughAt those rates ... Can I send you some parts
Mike
ForumSage
You can...
But if I like them you might not get them back.
Swaggie
SubscriberYeah, I usually do all these things myself but with electrical gear , I have often found it is difficult to source parts particularly for obscure things like Magneto Marelli ( if it needed parts such as brush sets). Rather than have the risk of doing research etc etc and waiting for parts I sent it to the leckie. The deal was he would strip it for $50 and if it needed more than $100 parts he would tell me and I would buy a newy.
I actually rebuilt a MM alternator with new diode board and regulator but I had to source the parts from UK.
I am also simultaneously replacing the wheel bearings in my trailer, and the b bearing supplier supplied the wrong seals which caused a 1 hour trip to West Gosford. Aggggh.
And my input seal in the steering box was leaking so I have it apart waiting for the part from Gary at CLR.
Regards Philip A
ForumSage
SubscriberA few rears ago I offered to remove the starter motor for my friend. It was a Jag. Fool me for offering. The workshop manual read the following
1. Remove both bucket seats.
2. Remove centre consul including stereo system.
3. Climb under and open inspection hole in firewall.
remove top starter motor bolt through hole.
And so on... removed bottom bolt from underneath.
Next ..how to get the darn thing out... after much twisting and wriggling of starter it came out
The auto elec guy had kittens when he walked in with it in his hands.
Of course I had to refit it....would it go in...NO... I had to remove one engine mount and jack up the motor to get it back in...
Then of course the stereo and front seats...
LESSON....Read the workshop manual before offering...
Jim the bunny
Jim VK2MAD
-------------------------
'17 Isuzu D-Max
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