Thread: Adding 2 stroke to diesel

Interesting idea. I will come back after work and read that posting (16 pages). Reasonably cheap additive though, and I have a 20L drum of Stihl oil out in the shed. Might try it in my old 300TDi first.....

I've used and posted on it in the past.

IMO you need to use an ashless synthetic two stroke lube, preferably a JASO FD rated one which has the highest detergency rating (eg Castrol Power 1 Racing TTS)

Use of a dedicated diesel additive like Redlines RL2 is preferable IMO as it contains some good detergents formulated for diesel use with an ashless ester two stroke lube as part of the package.

Actually just read the first few sentences of the first post and the bloke is so wrong he doesn't even know it.....

Sulphur has no lubricty as far as diesel is concerned. What happens is that when removing the sulphur certain aromatic compounds are also removed that provide a fair % of the oils lubrication.
Legislation requires that lubricants are placed back in diesel after refining, so there isn't really an issue these days with the name brand stuff. I still use RL2 just for 'a bit up my sleeve' with the mechanical pump on the Tdi.

So is my Sthil oil not likely to be suitable then? It's the bog standard Stihl stuff I mix at 50:1 for the chainsaw. No idea if it synthetic or anything....

theres holes... BIG holes.... holes that you'd normally assosciate with russian mining.

"I am not allowed to detail the legal reason"

URM why not, They are LEGAL reasons you can tell everyone about them.

"Such soot will (also) deposit on the turbo-blades and its bearings"

Blades I can sort of buy, how the hell does diesel soot wind up on the bearings? they are fed by filtered oil, if you're getting soot deposits on your bearings you have other things to worry about.

"But 2-T oil is not tracable in your fuel at all and it has the same color as diesel."

modern testing is good for better than 1 part in a billion. 300ml in 70l Hell even the 220l UBER ranger tank is traceable even a basic capilary seperation test is going to reveal the concentrations hes talking about.


"If you add 2-T oil to older diesel engines it will take some time until the soot and oil deposits are completely soaked and burned away"

so now not only does it burn cleaner but in the process of catching on fire its going to soak into the deposits of my engine and move them? Thats not always a bright idea (aside from I'm pretty sure that something thats on fire is not going to SOAK into anything)

AND the results from the uni testing never got a mention in the posts other than they were being done and were completed.


IMHO, 2 stroke oil has a slower propagation rate than diesel ANY oil you add that emulsifies into the diesel that has a slower propagation rate than the base fuel is going to quiet the engine in the same way that adding one thats got a quicker rate (say petrol) makes them run rougher. The trick is working out the concentration required.

Originally Posted by spudboy

So is my Sthil oil not likely to be suitable then? It's the bog standard Stihl stuff I mix at 50:1 for the chainsaw. No idea if it synthetic or anything....

The bog standard Stihl stuff is a Castrol mineral based lube.
Stihl Ultra, which I'm not even sure is available here, is an ester synthetic two stroke lube, blended in Italy by Castrol.


Dave, you bring up burn rate, how would this correspond to flash point of the lube, if at all ?
Sticking to ester based synthetics for a second, the JASO FC/FD oils, which are pretty much considered 'smokeless' have very low flash points, around the 70-90*C region, whereas the high performance/race type two stroke lubes have flash points of 250*C and above.
The minimum mandated flash point of diesel here is 61.5*C.

Can you see any issues with the higher flash point lubes ? (other than potential crankcase contamination. ie. it won't volatise off like mineral diesel oil)

For many years I have added two stroke oil to my vehicles both petrol and diesel.
I do not own a computor controllled diesel and most off my petrol vehicles are carby.
I do this for a fuel additive which is cheaper than the off shelf items .
I buy the cheapest no name brand two stroke oil I can find in a 20 litre drum and use a hand pump to pump it out as required.
I run somewhere from 200 to 300 to one.
On a petrol vehicle with carby I cannot see any harm in doing this and only good stuff happening , like longer bore and carby spindle life.
All two stroke oils try to be low ash and in the ratios I am using I cannot see any problems and heads off some off my motors are showing they are very clean is I think the two stroke has some detergent effects too.
On a petrol motor if I can see just the slightest bit of blue from the exhaust in the rear vision mirror under hard work I know I have got things the way I want them.
I see two stroke oil making up for the lack of lubrication in modern fuels
and a possible valve lubricant too.
Worn valve guides will dump more ash and bad carbon with blue exhaust than any two stroke oil at small amounts.

For diesel use I use it in about the same ratios.
I have been doing this for a very long time now in non computor diesels and cannot see how there would not be any thing but good stuff happening like better lubed injectors and pump seals etc.
All two stroke oils are designed to be low ash and to be clean as possible.
If you are going to use a fuel additive , then I think you can do no worse and it is very cost effective .
I buy the cheapest two stroke as it use is not crittical to the engine as in a normal stroke motor.
As for computor controlled diesels I dont know.
I read how important the dff carbon burn is and oils and fuels etc on this motors etc.
I think you would have to think about use of a two stroke oil as a additive carefully.
I wonder what is going to happen when these motors start doing high Ks and start burning their own combustion additives not as good as two stroke oil via the rings and valve guides.
On my diesels about every six months I add some Chem Tec just to help with any bad diesel or water I may have purchased.

Originally Posted by rick130

Dave, you bring up burn rate, how would this correspond to flash point of the lube, if at all ?

Can you see any issues with the higher flash point lubes ? (other than potential crankcase contamination. ie. it won't volatise off like mineral diesel oil)

More or less in most cases a higher flash point means its got a slower burn rate, (use dieso and petrol to establish a base line and you'll see what I mean)

I cant see it having any detrimental effect unless you get gumming or caramalising in small galleries (say injector return ports, spill ports or the strainer in the head under the fuel pressure regulator in the TD5)

What I dont see is all of the alleged benefits hes spruking, I can buy saving the old school diesels that are designed to run on the old school diesel fuel benefiting from the added lubrication factor of the two stroke but adding a measure of almost any diesel engine oil will give you that and its cheaper.

New engines are designed to run on new fuel and new oils, and unless someones been really stupid with the time machine and decided that the 4 pot diesel in the freebie should be made of the same tech as say a series engine then theres no point in putting the oil in the fuel.