Swivel hub breathers - any one done it?

We are talking about removing seal #8 and #23 in your second image. This means that your wheel bearings, swivels, and diffs will all run in common oil.

Oil lubricates better than grease, and as Dougal mentioned is better when water ingress may be an issue.

When I adjust or install wheel bearings, I put a small amount of grease on them for initial lubrication, but this is washed away quickly by the oil.

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Originally Posted by scott oz

I’ve pulled the inner oil seal on the back of my current TD5 2001 Def, so the flanges/bearings run in oil. I was gong to do the same on the front but was told not to.



The only negative I can think of is that there is no drain plug on the new swivel so you would rely on draining the diff oil regularly. Noting that there would always be some residual oil in the swivel housing.[/SIZE][/FONT]
What do you think

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Why were you told not to???

When we did a friend's 90 we went the whole hog and installed earlier type swivel housings with drains. But you could just as easily drill and tap drain holes into the later type.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

When we did a friend's 90 we went the whole hog and installed earlier type swivel housings with drains. But you could just as easily drill and tap drain holes into the later type.

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Couldn't you drain it through a swivel pin bolt hole?

Just don't undo both of them unless the vehicle is jacked up.:eek:

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Originally Posted by Dougal

Couldn't you drain it through a swivel pin bolt hole?

Just don't undo both of them unless the vehicle is jacked up.:eek:

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Probably... would have to check. Series vehicles have studs at the bottom, not bolts - can't remember what coillers have.

You can drain it through one of the wiper seal bolt holes. But if you have all the bits apart it is easier to just drill and tap a drain plug. The 90 in question was also swapping to early type stub axles and 30-spline longfields at the time, so everything had to come off.

the most important seal too offload is number 23 in the above images the one that separates your swivel oil from your bearings. some people even go to the effort of drilling a hole top to bottom in the stub axle between the bearing seats to promote oil flow. Commonly this is refered to as the "oil fed bearings conversion" when you do this conversion as you will have the hub off replace the seal with the double lipped one.

I dont usually goto the effort of pulling out the seal (#8) between the swivel unless its already stuffed in which case I pull it and dont replace it, someone specifically wants a set up for frequent wading OR they want to go with a pressurised diff conversion.

IF you dont do it on a pressurised diff conversion you can wind up pushing the oil into the swivel housing (which isnt a bad thing) over filling it and blowing the swivel seals out (which is a bad thing)

OK to summarise for those like me who aren't to technical.

To fully flow oil to the swivel hubs and bearings you would
(figure 2 refer post below) you would

remove axle shaft seal (8)
remove constant velocity shaft seal (23)
drill through the stub axle at middle of bearing (improved oil flow)
replace standard oil seal (figure 1) with double lipped seal part RTC3511

If some one can provide the double lipped seal number would be much appreciated. (now provided)
.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scott oz

If some one can provide the double lipped seal number would be much appreciated.

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RTC3511

Cheers for the clarifying posts above. Now it is clear what seals folk have been discussing and what oil/grease scenarios we have.

OK, I am sort of persuaded to remain with oil washed wheel bearings. Seems like so many advantages to leave it all at the status quo. I wouldn't have such a problem with this idea if I could replace the plastic dust cap of the drive flange with something a tad more robust. I haven't lost one yet but I have a good 'bruise' on one of them due to contact with the side of ruts or tree stumps. I usually silicon these on and then run a zip-tie or cable-tie tightly around the base of them to hold them on. This won't stop them getting the ultimate bash one day and being torn. I know bigger rims and tyres than the 5.5 inch rims running LT7.50/16's would provide more protection but that is a whole other financial drain.

Is there a useful replacement for these drive flanges and plastic dust caps? I have seen Ashcroft's ones (below), very nice indeed but the rate of exchange is not currently kiwi-friendly. Will have to sort out the gearbox debt sitting on the credit card before I venture forth again ;)

http://217.34.53.228:9876/uploads/5806.jpg

I've got the Maxidrive ones look the same. I understand he Maxidrive ones allow abut 1/2 to 1" of additional spline engagement to decrease wear. Or is this only with their own axles cost about $130 each.

G'day all,

Apologies for dragging this thread back from the dead. I made a thread a little while ago on this issue, and had helpful replies, but i got confused with the names of all the seals. Now that i have found this thread with some good diagrams (on page 2) i think i'm starting to understand it all a bit better!

Recently i rebuilt the swivel hubs in my 84 110. I removed seal #23 (in second image on page 2 of this thread), but i left the seal in the end of the axle housing (which looks to be #8?). My swivel hubs are now pressurizing (to the point that the dust caps blow off after long use of the brakes, and oil is leaking badly from the swivel ball seals). I assume that if i remove the seal in the end of the axle housing (#8?) that the pressure in the swivel housings will equalise via the axle housing breather?

Thank you,

Edward :)

means your axle breather is blocked.