Ignition key won't turn . . . . . .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sandyian

...no thanks to the Southern Cross Land Rover. I couldn't imagine there could be a worse dealer anywhere in Australia. I was there at opening time and David was so full of excuses and wouldn't even consider allowing a mechanic to spend 15 minutes removing the barrel assembly so a locksmith could do the rest. The car was even bought brand new from them but just like last time I needed a little help form them the guy just sits there in his chair full of excuses. Last time was simply needing the code for the radio after a battery change. LR head office supplied the number in the end. With staff like David it's no wonder LR has such a bad reputation. :confused:

---

Appalling service.

Fire off an email to LR head office complaining and "cc" it to someone in the UK for good measure. People/Companies like that need a kick up the bum :mad:

Glad to see you have the lock problem fixed.
This happened to me about 18 months ago?? and I am sure I posted a "fix" on this site??

Here is a summary of the relevant bits about stuck steering locks.
(in laymans language)

First and simplest is to turn the steering wheel against the pressure of the locking pin in case it is simply jammed and too hard for the key to turn.
Sometimes happens when parked in the gutter/kerb where the weight of the car is pushing against the tyres/steering.

Otherwise.

Most locks ( car /house/padlocks ) work on a "shearline" between the barrel and the housing. ie when the brass key-followers sit correctly in the bumps/hollows in the key.. they are all aligned ..resulting in a gap between the rotating barrel and the lock housing allowing the barrel to turn.
The problem is usually worn /rough brass followers which catch in their slots and do not accurately follow the key pattern..hence no shearline and barrel will not turn.

Lubrication may help..but a another temporary fix is to hit the end of the lock assembly ( where the key goes in) with a hammer.:o ( Rubber hammer or a bit of wood to avoid damage helps.)
This "shocks" the lock and the jammed followers often fall into place.
Re-fit the key and it may turn...at least you get home.
This is a common fix by RACV/NRMA etc.

The next option is to remove the plastic covers and start dis-assembling the steering lock. The actual Ignition ( electrical switch )comes off the end of the locking assembly and can be turned on with eg .a screwdriver blade.
To remove the steering-lock pin ..use a cold-chisel and hammer to rotate/undo the mounting bolts. The bolts were fitted with shearheads so that when originally assembled to tension, the heads break off making removal (and therefore theft) more difficult.
Once bolts are removed, the locking pin assembly can be removed from the steering shaft allowing it to turn.... the ignition part is separated and switched on with a screwdriver/pocket knife etc....and voila!!! off you go.

A locksmith will usually be able to rebuild the key assembly by replacing all the brass followers and cleaning up any rough edges on the diecast lock assembly....otherwise it is a replacement.

Mine was re-installed by the locksmith using the same shearbolts/chisel ..(although you could buy new bolts with shearheads) and is good as new.

Good to know this stuff if you are in a remote area!!!

Hope it helps
Cheers
Bob

Thanks Discodancer. Happened to me this afternoon. Fortunately I was home went upstairs and read the thread.
Two light blows to the ignition lock, a squirt of graphite and the key turns like new.

Hey Straddy
Glad to see my previous misfortune could help someone else!!

The graphite is good but be aware that the "no key turn" problem may indicate wear on the brass followers.
These followers are not round pins ( common in house locks) but are very thin flat "wafers" that get rough edges and bend slightly?..which jambs them in their slots.
The little centering springs are then not strong enough to slide them up and down when there is any resistance ..hence the need to shock them with a hammer.

Keep the lock lubed but beware the problem might reappear at an inconvenient location.

May not hurt to have a small (eg 100mm ) cold chisel & hammer in your tool box??

Cheers
Bob

Had the problem twice

The RAC breakdown service will give you ( depending on your cover and your state) around $200 worth of locksmith fees.

I just had one come out and fix it up.

Cause by the steel key rubbing over brass tumblers burring the tumblers.

After the second time I just bought a whole new assembly from the UK. It was not that expensive. I just gave them the VIN number ( Rimmer Bros ) and they sent me the correct assembly.

It first happened to me when I was crossing from east to west in the middle of nowhere. Fortunately I got it to turn and then I did not take the key out until I returned home to Perth