Thread: Pulley Removal?

if they are using the woodruff key hole to locate the locking screw your laughing.

IF they have a woodruff key you're in trouble.

start out by completely removing the locking screw, if you dont have woodruff keys lock the smaller pully with a filter wrench (the rubber strap grip type) then work the other pully against it till it slips on the shaft.

lube spray is a big help. Once you get it turning the battles won.

if you have wood ruff keys you need to be a bit butcherous. I usually hang the item from the pully via a wire rope to the roof, lifting it about a foot above a tyre then apply heat in the form of a propane torch then whack the center with a brass drift and the FBH.


you might get away with doing the spanish windlass trick from one part of the frame to the other to get the pully thats on the inside off.

those ally pullys should only run about $25ish for the little one and maybe $50 for the big one you could just grind them off and be done with it.



your final option (and probabley the best but it may kill the bearing)

is to place a blanking plate over the holes in the frame after removing the bolts that mount the bearing carriers. then put the bolts back in with the nuts between the bearing carrier and the plate when you wind the nuts up the bolt it will convert the bearing carrier into a press and should push the inside pully off.

Heat them, being careful not to melt them. Aluminium expands with temperature at a much greater rate than steel, so this is likely to be effective. If not, it can be combined with the following suggestions.

If this is not successful, and you have access to a lathe, it should be possible to make a fitted collar that can clamp into the vee and spread the pull of your puller round the full circumference of the pulley.

Another approach would be to drill and tap two, three or more equally spaced holes in the hub of the pulleys to use a purpose made special puller or to bolt on a ring that can be used with your existing puller.

Failing any of these approaches, it is worth noting that the pulleys appear to be standard off the shelf ones, and replacements should be cheap!

John

Unfortunatly it dose have a key to locate the pulley, Dave. Also I cannot grasp the shaft that the small pulley is on, as it goes to the inside of the roller an is connected to an ecentric weight. I may as well just cut of the small one, It is already broken. The bolts on the bearing carriers cannot be taken out untill the big pulley is removed, the steel cylinder on the opposite end is an integeral part of the shaft so cannot be removed. I might have a crack at taping three bolts into the hub of the big pulley and use some steel plate an a bolt as a puller as per JDNSW's suggestion. I could even just put a 3 jaw puller onto the bolts I tap into the pulley, It worked on the engine flywheel Thanks for the Ideas

Paul

A bit of heat should get them moving, as John says, aluminium expands so much quicker than steel, don't need much heat, Regards Frank.

Try spraying some Chemsearch "Yield" on and leaving it for an hour. This is an industrial product usually sold by engineering supply houses. I call it miracle fluid. WD40 & RP7 are hand lotions in comparison. Some gentle heat can then be used if the items are still recalcitrant.

Made by ANI? That must be a bloody old pedestrian roller.

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

Try spraying some Chemsearch "Yield" on and leaving it for an hour. This is an industrial product usually sold by engineering supply houses. I call it miracle fluid. WD40 & RP7 are hand lotions in comparison. Some gentle heat can then be used if the items are still recalcitrant.

Made by ANI? That must be a bloody old pedestrian roller.

sounds like good stuff, I will see if I can find some, could turn out very usefull.

Yes It is a very old roller. It has a 20 year old honda G400 engine on it, and that is its second engine

Paul

Unfortunatly I had to destroy the pulleys to get them of as they had been locktighted in place, I could not get them to budge with any other method. It was still a several hour mission to get them off in several pieces

I was quite supprised to find that the 6 rubber mounts used on one side of the roller were identical to land rover series engine mounts, so I just had to raid my spare parts to replace them

I have now have a similar problem with a bearing on one of the shafts. The inner run of the bearing is stuck on the shaft and is butted up against another surface and cannot be driven off I am thinking a bearing splitter might get it to move a few mm but after that I am not sure.



Any ideas on this one guys?

Cheers Paul

you can try heating the sleeve........

or just use a big cold chisel in the groove and try and hammer it off cold.....
just make sure to take the neccessary safety measures incase any metal fragments chip off........


big chisel and bigger hammer should have that off in minutes.....