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The 'Tyrepliers' are probably the most difficult of all the beadbreakers to use and, as Dave outlined, require a heap of technique.Quote:
Originally Posted by dullbird
After reading the technique (and difficulties) of operating the 'R&R Beadbreaker' posted by p38arover, I'd suggest that the 'Tyre Jaws' or Erichs home made unit are the easiest to use and best for Land Rover Alloys.
that maybe so....I was only pointing out that apparently you can break with them if you get the adapter ;)
Good stuff Erich, if I get the time I will attempt to make one of these for the trip.
I tried for over 2 hours saturday with the R&R and the LR alloy wheel adaptor with no success, you just can't get enough downward force to break the bead:mad:
I also tried the hilift jack, all I managed to do was lift the car up:eek:
Great work mate and thanks, Baz.
I'd disagree, Tyrepliers are dead easy to use on standard Disco or Defender steel rims. I do doubt there effectiveness on the alloy's though and as DB and I have obviously got different sides to the same coin on this it makes me also doubt if they will work on an alloy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtreme
Erich's unit certainly looks effective and I also like the way he's mounted it on the trailer.
I haven't used one, but this simple attachment for breaking beads with a high-lift jack appeals to me.
that looks pretty neat!!
hope you weren't talking about the foot:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by dullbird
Balinese safety boots:wasntme:
I tried a similar device on the hi lift and couldn't break the bead - only lift the Defender.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
Erich.
I approached tyre removal with an open mind, since my trusted hilift jack method no longer worked. I have never tried any other commercial portable device, but have seen demos of several. They seem just too expensive and very few are kind to the outer edge of the mag rim.
I made about 4 different units, using chains, high lift jacks, bottle jacks etc etc - bent one hilift in the process and wrecked a D2 rim
The current unit has a similar philosophy to the bead breakers used in the tyre shops - No contact with the outer edge of the rim with the securing point at the center.
The hub used for the Defender set-up is off a Series1 Disco after about an hour in the lathe. The hub used for the Series2 Disco is a standard wheel S2 hub with bearings etc removed. The center spigot is a piece of tube with a circular plate welded on each end - one larger than the other and a piece of tube down the center being a guide for the center bolt.
The angle the foot pushes at is not vertical but towards the center of the rim.
The foot came from a bit of trial and error. I first tried a flat foot but this required too much pressure to move the tyre. curving up the outer edges overcame this problem. I also tried different width of feet and this seemed optimum, normally only requiring a 2 relocations to remove the tyre off the safety lip.
The main brace is a piece of 3mm 100mm RHS, cut down and strengthened.
I haven't overcome the problem of the bolts getting a burr at they are forced against the foot but I may insert a ball in the end or something similar. Presently the ends are chamfered right back.
I haven't had to use this in anger yet (haven't had any flats) but have broken the beads of 4 different Series2 Disco tyres and 2 Defender Mag tyres. This has been on holidays already once and will be one of the first items on the spares list for our next holiday in about 6 weeks.
This was made with bits in my workshop and is still a proto-type. Once when I run out of things to do I might make a better looking lighter one.
Erich
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundalene
That will never, ever, ever happen.
For all of you that have seen dads shed, or have been to his place, you will know what i mean.
Andy