Its not water in the plenum/ decker panel area is it ? or possibly roof somewhere ?
Hey,
I have a 300TDI and i have run out of ideas i have a sloshing heater core that is driving me friggen nuts! I have bleed the cooling system a few times now driven with the lid on the expansion tank a little loose but still no luck. I have also done a sniff test just in case it was a head gasket problem but all is good and it is not showing any other HG problems (HG was replaced 10K ago) I have also tried leaving the radiator bleed screw a little loose. I have had the heater on while bleeding etc Not leaking or using any coolent anyone got any ideas on getting the air out of the heater core
Mick
Its not water in the plenum/ decker panel area is it ? or possibly roof somewhere ?
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
I had the same thing in my Classic a couple of years ago. Was doing my head in!
It wouldnt leak coolant out, but was letting air in and pushing coolant up the expansion bottle until it would overflow.
Turned out it was a hose that wouldnt leak under pressure but WOULD suck air in as the engine cooled and vacuum was formed in the system. The most common point for it to collect was in the heater.
Unfortunately the hose that was leaking was on the heater and I really wasnt in a mental position to bother so I just disconnected the heater.....
Might have to get to it one day.....Its cold... so very cold........
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The 300 Tdi is a little different in that the heater core is always connected - no on/off taps. In the Disco, the heat is varied by the amount of air passing through it, so when you turn the dial, you are opening and closing the vent flap in front of the heater core.
As to the sloshing, Disco's can have a blocked AC condensate drain. If you don't already know them, they are rubber 'duckbills' each side of the transmission tunnel (Look up above the front uni at the front of the TC). Wire coathangers are the usual tool used.
Lastly, provided the one way valve is working ok , I'd say you've already bled the engine properly. If there isn't any leaks or obvious coolant loss, that's a good thing. One last test would be, when cold, checking the top plug near the thermostat (Reservoir cap on). Because the reservoir and radiator are below the level of that, any air bubble wouldn't show until you crack the top plug.
ok so if I park the disco in my drive way with the nose pointing up then bleed the system again i should get that air pocket out??
Yep ... It's a Double Post
See below![]()
Yep ... Find a slope Just like this ...
... Slight exaggeration ... but steep is good
rather than just nose up
Run the motor in that position for a while after it has fully warmed up .. checking coolant level all the time ... PLUS the day after, ect
Also ... Have a REAL good look at the condition of the radiator and all the hoses as per LOVEMYRANGIE suggestions
Mike
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NP
Radiator has a brand new core in it as of 3 months ago and has all new radiator hoses but i haven't chked the heater hoses since i fitted the engine (12 months) The decker was dry the other day when i was using it as a tool holder when i replaced the starter motor. I will chk the air con outlets when i built the ute last year they were so clogged i dont know how it was working! I had the whole heater/cooling unit out at the time so i gave it a very good clean. I think the drivway might be the trick will try at some stage this week and let you know how i go
Mick
Check the O rings to where the Heater hoses meet the Cabin Heater core ... check that the carpet is not wetish in that area
Slightly off track ... But .. My bro has a D2 V8 ... He installed a brand new radiator // Genuine Factory replacement ... THE sloshing came back with vengeance after the install ... Long story, short .... The new Radiator was found to be 90% blocked from "flux core" ... from when the factory manufactured the radiator
Mike
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