That chain is filthy. Was it like that when it was removed? If so, it looks as though there's been no lubrication, possibly due to the lubrication jet being blocked.
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That chain is filthy. Was it like that when it was removed? If so, it looks as though there's been no lubrication, possibly due to the lubrication jet being blocked.
Hey guys,
I appreciate your toughts and time :thumbsup::TakeABow:.
Got the head back today, very happy with his work.
Each rocker and lifter in a bag marked for each hole(1-10).
6 rockers either broken or notchy, 5 lifters damaged(not tested in any way). Full set on order.
Cam and carrier OK. 4thou. taken off face to clean it up(I know shouldn't do it).
Cheaked the inj. rockers agaist pics. in the manual, they are the early ones so I think the head has not been off.
Showed the machinest the timeing chain, he hadn't seen one fracture like mine either;).
Intrestingly the front off the oil pump gear is clean, back is tarnished like the timeing chain.
Another 2 questions if I may,
When I get it back together whats the best way to bleed the top end (Hyd. lifters ect).
Will the fuel self bleed with the ign. on to let pump run?
Thanks again, cheers
the best thing to do is bleed it up as per the manual.
whenever I do an oil change prior to even trying for a start I pull the injector harness plug and crank it on the starter till the oil pressure light goes out.
in your case I suggest that you coat each cam lobe in assembley oil (which is about as thick as honey and sticks to everything) put the top back on and do an early oil change.
IF youre building the whole head yourself and its going to take you more than say a day there is nothing wrong with coating all the running surfaces with a thin smear of grease for initial lube, getting your initial start and then changing the oil after about an hours worth of run time.
G'day all,
Got news today the parts are in Perth:)
By the time they strip out the box and post I should see them early next week.
Havn't been able to find any thing on bleeding the lifters so I was thinking either....
Soaking the lifters and rockers in oil (like a spigot bush) for as long as I can,
Or using a small hand oil pump can squirting oil into the lifters.
I'll be changing the oil after it starts and coolant bleed (1 hour) with both filters but,..
Should I change both now or just the spin on?
Or remove the centralfugal one for the first start up?
Is it nessesary to "lock" the drive plate through the bell housing to set the cam timing?(the cam is simple).
To prime the oil I was thinking of bypassing the starter relay so no ignition input needed.(Shame they only have 4 glow plugs not 5;))
If I drop the injector loom will it put codes in the ECU?
Thanks again guys :BigThumb:
Cheers, Kyle.
will have to delve the books, its in the RAVE, if you dont have one dont do any more till you get one. (if you order today dave should be able to get it to you before your parts get there)
No such thing as changing one filter where theres more than one filter per type of fluid.
the best way of filling the lifters is to put them in a glass of oil and "plunge" them with a small rod.
dropping the plug off of the harness will put a set of Injector open circut codes into the ECU but once you plug it back together wont cause you any hassles.
As Dave said get the rave cd.
The cam has a drop hole in it. When it's lined up with a hol in the carrier you can put a rod/bolt down to hold it in place. This also lets you do the cam cog up. There is also upposed to be ne for the crank. The manual will tell you how to find it. Remember the cam is adjustable so it is the only way to line it up correctly.
Thanks guys,Quote:
Originally Posted by George130
Got a the rave cd and a Haynes.
Ill grab an air fitting as per Haynes for the crank, just thought I should ask.
Thanks and cheers, Kyle.
G'day guys,
My parts have landed at my suppliers place so he'll sort tomorrow and I'm picking them up Thursday:)
I'll soak the lifters and rockers in oil till Sat lunch when I'll assemble the head.
Oil flows through the lifters under preshure(taking up gap) and when pushed from above by rocker this closes the ports and they become"solid" so I'll try to fill them.
Picked up and modified a fitting to lock the crank using a drill bit.
Last question I hope..
If I re-assemble the motor excluding the injectors can I crank the motor with the fuel pump relay out?
My thought is to take the load of the bottom end bearings as I build up oil preshure.
Or would this risk possibly contaminating the fuel system and the injectors whan refitted?
Thanks for your help with this job.
It's a learning curve for me as when I stoped spanering full time Fuel injection was just starting to become the norm. (and they were Nissans).
Cheers, Kyle.
Kyle,Quote:
Originally Posted by alien d2
I wouldn't crank the engine for long without the injectors in, the volume of oil to the cam etc is huge, and will possibly end up in the fuel ports/ rail. The crank should've been assembled with bearing lube for this reason, and with the 5w/30/40/50 oil used it'll soon get oil pressure to all important bits.
Have fun!:)
JC
Im backing ^^^ that