If you can afford the reco/mod option I woud go that way, I was lucky when my ZF died as there was one for sale which had recently been reconditioned. From memory to have a shop remove/refit the auto and transfer case is around the $800 mark.
The auto specialist place has just told me that the lockup clutch in my torque converter (4HP22) is dead.
Trans removal/refit, converter, recommended trans o/haul (vehicle has done 215K), and 3rd gear lockup mod comes to around $4K.
3rd lockup is around $800 as a standalone job, but only $400 if done with the rest of the work.
Its not a daily driver, mainly for mild offroad and a bit for towing our Jayco camper. I'm planning on keeping it for a while, and annual travel is around 15-20Km's.
These are my options as I see them:
1. Do the overhaul/mod work listed above - $4K
2. Just get the converter fixed/replaced (not sure of total cost)
3. Source a good used trans and converter and replace them myself (haven't done an auto removal/refit before, but I'm quite comfortable wielding spanners)
Just getting the converter done by the trans place doesn't seem to be good value as the removal/refit is quite dear (unsure of exact cost). If I'm going to get them to do the work I might as well spend the money and get the box o/hauled.
How hard is it to remove/refit the trans, and what sort of $$ would I be likely to have to pay for a good used trans and converter.
Any other comments welcome
Steve
If you can afford the reco/mod option I woud go that way, I was lucky when my ZF died as there was one for sale which had recently been reconditioned. From memory to have a shop remove/refit the auto and transfer case is around the $800 mark.
98 Harvey the tractor - 300 tdi Defender Wagon
84 Alfetta GTV
I paid $3,600 for a complete re-build of my dead ZF 4 speed in the 1993 range rover in Perth.
Call these guys, they used to do the whole lot in house but I dont know now.
Home
Last I heard an ZF4HP22 was roughly around $3k fitted with reco converter and the 3rd mod wouldnt be much for these guys.
What engine is infront of it? My mate built mine(transbuilder), cost me $280 for converter, slab of beer for the box. My lock up in the converter was destroyed, but when he pulled the box down,said it was like new inside (250k) because of the mighty (gutless) 300tdi infront of it, so could have just done the converter but hey for a slab, why not get it all done
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Unfortunately I don't have any transbuilder mates
Yes, its a 300tdi. I'm starting to think I should have a crack at just replacing the converter myself.
Never done one before but it can't be THAT hard (can it ???).
I've been told that its a bit of a mongrel to get the auto out, and you have to spread the chassis rails to do it. I haven't read up on exactly whats involved though.
I'm a lucky as its not a daily driver so no rush to get it fixed and I can just take my time.
If I have to pay someone else to do the remove/refit it becomes a toss-up whether to take the risk and just do the converter. If the box dies a few months down the track then I'll have to pay for another remove/refit to get it reco'd.
Anyone comment on whether its realistic to replace the torque converter just in an average shed without hoist etc?
Steve
I've done this also.
When my convertor died, I got it reconditioned but kept the transmission original to save money (fulltime student at the time). It cost about $280 from memory. Don't need a hoist but several jacks and lots of packing blocks. Some of the bellhousing bolts are a pain to get out but if you have several socket extensions, you can get right over the top of the transmission from the back. Don't have to spread chassis rails or anything like that. Later on, I decided to have the transmission rebuilt to keep the car reliable as it had 350k on it but to tell you the truth, it doesn't feel any different. I think the ZF is just a soft changing box. So, with 215k behind a 300tdi, I'd just reco and mod the convertor, doing the remove/refit yourself.
Tony
BTW. Just thinking about spreading the chassis. You might have to spread it a millimetre or two to drop the gearbox crossmember out. You can use a highlift jack for that. It's easy.
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