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Thread: fourth clutch master cylinder

  1. #1
    scott oz Guest

    fourth clutch master cylinder

    I’ve just had my fourth clutch master cylinder (the seals start to leak) put into my 2001 build TD5 Def. the first one went at 84,000 then roughly every 15,000K’s..

    The brake and clutch specialist says that everything is aligned and is working properly and he can’t understand why they are going?

    Is there anything in the gear box that could cause this? The pedal pressure seems fine.

    What gets me is three of the four are out or warranty. Note the replacements are not LR product.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Hi Scott,
    About to to my second one, this only lasting about 10,000k
    This has been an issue going around for a while now.

    I have also fitted mine to the specific requirements, the pedal height is apparently critical.

    I will however be sleeving this one with stainless as this has been a common solution.
    Defender 02MY

    My previous Defender, 1995 tdi still had it's original M/C at 145k when I sold it?

    Cheers,
    Paul.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Lismore NSW
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    Same problem after 15,000km/ 18mths in my 110.My old series 3 was ok for 13 years?? thou it had a small weep -that's what rubber mats are for,just be careful if your got good shoes!
    I was wondering if our extended period of wet weather locally affected it or the fluid at all(my heater fan didn't like it either)-maybe flushing new fluid through annually or after prolonged wet may help?
    Mine was non-genuine are L/rover ones better?
    Think I'll pull this one apart and suss out sleeving

  4. #4
    richard4u2 Guest
    all i can think of is heat having an effect on the rubber cup in the cyclinder, just change the cup and see if it works then if it does you may have to wrap the cyclinder with heat wrap

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW SW Slopes
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    My 03 TD5 D2 had a new m/c at 100K and now with problems at 200K so I'm hoping its the m/c again. I'll be replacing the cup if the bore is OK but it would be great to know the size to get the new cup beforehand.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pretoria, RSA
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    See my thread about this problem.
    Had no oil leaks.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...tch-dance.html

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Parkerville WA
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    I have a 2004 Def 130

    The 1st clutch master cylinder started leaking before its 1st service (approx 10000km) and was changed under warranty 9at its 1st service)
    2nd one started leaking at about 25,000km about the same time the battery failed. both got changed under warranty
    Its now just done 90,000km and looks like a weep has just started running down the pedal
    dont think i`ll get warranty this time!

    Ian

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    wollondilly
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott oz View Post
    I’ve just had my fourth clutch master cylinder (the seals start to leak) put into my 2001 build TD5 Def. the first one went at 84,000 then roughly every 15,000K’s..

    The brake and clutch specialist says that everything is aligned and is working properly and he can’t understand why they are going?

    Is there anything in the gear box that could cause this? The pedal pressure seems fine.

    What gets me is three of the four are out or warranty. Note the replacements are not LR product.
    Had the same problem on my 110, went through 3 cyl.s. in around 40,000ks turned out to be lack of freeplay between pedal and pushrod. when set to spec was placing slight sideways strain on piston causing rapid wear on cylinder body. Increased freeplay slightly and no probs for over 100,000 kms. Check worn cylinder to see if wear is on sides or top/bottom. could be the cause.
    Good luck,
    Steve.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Camp Hill Queensland
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    Yes pedal height is important, I think about 1" below the height of the brake pedal. If the pedal is too high, I believe it goes over center leading to premature wear of the master cylinder.
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

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