Thread: 300TDi Head Bolts! Reuse or Bin??

Originally Posted by rick130

Ok, tech content.

Anyone use the fancy pants ARP bolt lube at all ?

Supposedly ensures much more reliable bolt/clamp tension over engine oil or a moly oil/grease or slurry.

yep but only 32-1, just make sure your carby is tuned correctly and then your good to go WOT!!!!

Originally Posted by uninformed

yep but only 32-1, just make sure your carby is tuned correctly and then your good to go WOT!!!!

Is is synthetic ? and does it matter ?

Originally Posted by rick130

Ok, tech content.

Anyone use the fancy pants ARP bolt lube at all ?

Supposedly ensures much more reliable bolt/clamp tension over engine oil or a moly oil/grease or slurry.

Now this thread (no pun intended) gets interesting again.

Thanks Ric - definitely something to keep in mind

ARP-bolts.com | ARP Ultra-Torque

If I had known this product about it I probably would have used it.

I oiled the block threads with a light engine oil before the final clean off of the deck (attempting to keep the head gasket mating surfaces as clean as possible) and applied grease to mating surfaces the bolt flanges - best I could do with home mechanic's knowledge. So far so good.....

The papers on it and the results using various lubes are very interesting.

Studs fix a lot of (potential) issues too.

Rick,
in specific relation to the 300
does headbolt tension really matter that much?
The failure rate seems to be a function of differential heating combined with internal delamination of the composite gasket.
Would using studs and serges 32-1 chainy oil really make any difference if you then blew a hose cooked the engine in the process warping the tin can head relative to the block????

You know a little part of me doesnt want to turn that Dawes valve down and I want to keep pushing 20psi+ just to see what happens next Hopefully with somewhat sensible fuelling and only minimal (JC recommended advance) I shouldnt be melting piston tops so only real issue should be head integrity...

S

Originally Posted by rick130

The papers on it and the results using various lubes are very interesting.

Studs fix a lot of (potential) issues too.

yes.... unfortunately I wasn't aware of all that info before I did mine.....


I would be interested to know (and understand) why the use of studs instead of hold-down bolts would be an improvement.

If there was a good reason for doing it (and if it was as straightforward as installing studs to the block threads) it could be a simple fix- assuming that appropriate studs are available.

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Rick,
in specific relation to the 300
does headbolt tension really matter that much?
The failure rate seems to be a function of differential heating combined with internal delamination of the composite gasket.
Would using studs and serges 32-1 chainy oil really make any difference if you then blew a hose cooked the engine in the process warping the tin can head relative to the block????

You know a little part of me doesnt want to turn that Dawes valve down and I want to keep pushing 20psi+ just to see what happens next Hopefully with somewhat sensible fuelling and only minimal (JC recommended advance) I shouldnt be melting piston tops so only real issue should be head integrity...

S

If you and I used a MLS head gasket instead of the composite, we could crank the bolt tension up and wind up the boost quite a bit more (with a better/more efficient turbo)

Originally Posted by 87County

yes.... unfortunately I wasn't aware of all that info before I did mine.....


I would be interested to know (and understand) why the use of studs instead of hold-down bolts would be an improvement.

If there was a good reason for doing it (and if it was as straightforward as installing studs to the block threads) it could be a simple fix- assuming that appropriate studs are available.

ARP say it better than I ever could, I'll dig up the link.

Someone on here has gone the stud route, ARP set them up as it wasn't off the shelf, and he posted the invoice...

Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque
loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head,
the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued
to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two
different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in
a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed
nut.
If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight.
Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch
only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud
will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This
provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the
head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs
and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run.