Over fueling what to do????

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Originally Posted by Bill E

Thought about the ignition leads but doesn’t seem logical they would ALL fail at the same time to the point they do and then ALL come good when the temperature drops a bit ….same with the spark plugs.

Any comments/suggestions appreciated.

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Not if its your coil lead though....

It could be a whole range of different things. Best is to start eliminating the common causes. Coil/module is an expensive exercise if your not certain.
Start with things such as coil lead, rotor button & cap etc.
What it doesnt answer is why it dies under 1200 revs. Heat wouldnt be a reason as it wouldnt matter what revs you were at, if a module has packed up, its packed up.
fuel, could be due to low fuel pressure ie faulty fuel reg, but again, this would be throughout the whole rev range of the engine.

Stepper motor is a possibility as it might have failed partially closed, enough to starve the engine of air, but again, doesnt explain the hard to start when hot.

Blocked or stuck injectors are a possibility.
Blocked injectors will starve engine of fuel, will also be hard to start when hot.

Stuck injectors or badly worn units will have almost no spray pattern, spray in a stream, be hard to start when hot and will also give off a fuel smell as it floods the engine.

I like a challenge!!

Cheers
]
Andrew.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

Not if its your coil lead though....

What it doesnt answer is why it dies under 1200 revs. Heat wouldnt be a reason as it wouldnt matter what revs you were at, if a module has packed up, its packed up.
fuel, could be due to low fuel pressure ie faulty fuel reg, but again, this would be throughout the whole rev range of the engine.

Stepper motor is a possibility as it might have failed partially closed, enough to starve the engine of air, but again, doesnt explain the hard to start when hot.

Blocked or stuck injectors are a possibility.
Blocked injectors will starve engine of fuel, will also be hard to start when hot.

Stuck injectors or badly worn units will have almost no spray pattern, spray in a stream, be hard to start when hot and will also give off a fuel smell as it floods the engine.

I like a challenge!!

Cheers
]
Andrew.

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Andrew I might be explaining it incorrectly, what happens is when it is driven from cold it's fine, when the temp gauge reaches the usual operating temperature it still drives OK, but when I slow to a stop i.e. at the lights or in traffic, and the revs drop below about 900rpm and try to drive off it misses and cuts out and needs to cool a bit until the temp gauge is about half way between cold and the usual operating temperature before it will start

But if I can keep away from traffic lights etc. i.e. back streets and can maintain the revs at around 1200rpm I can keep it going.

I'll have to have another look tomorrow and check no breaks in the coil wires and check the stepper motor, have another look at the distributor cap for signs of problems.

Over the weekend I've found a number of references in forums to heat related module failure, Lucas apparently relocated the module away from the distributor and mounted it near the coil.

I've had Land Cruisers and Patrols in the past and a 1980 Rangie from 1985 until about a year ago, all simple to work on and no real electrical gremlins like bloody Rangies, I've had this one for 6 years and the biggest bugbear I've had is niggling electrical problems.

I'm not a mechanic and this is really getting me down, but tomorrow's another day.

Thanks for your interest to date..guess you're all partied out;)

I had another look at it this morning and tried to find an ID number on the coil in case it needed replacement, and cleaned the coil terminals with some cleaner, but to get it out of the bracket I had to unbolt it and noticed there is a heavy earth strap (main earth?) using one of the bolts, I cleaned that up (Was pretty clean anyway)and tightened the bolts again, drove about 2 klm until it warmed up then left it idling in the drive for 1.5 hours and it seems like it's back to it's old self and drives fine.

Not sure if that is the "Final fix" for this particular problem I have been experiencing but I guess the next day or so will tell.

It may be the problem. Bad earths can be a problem with these. I have redone earths on both sides of my engine to tie in engine, chassis and body all together on both sides of the block giving a solid path all the way through. Since doing this some years ago, I havent had any issues with power at all anywhere.

It may pay also to check the small earth wire on the side of the distributor and give it a clean too.

If it gives you any more drama, let me know. Was flat out all weekend and only now just catching up!

Cheers

Andrew.

Well, done 120klm and fair bit of stop start in traffic and problem hasn't raised it's ugly head so it looking good that it might just have been a earth problem...but I'd like to know for sure:(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

Not if its your coil lead though....

It could be a whole range of different things. Best is to start eliminating the common causes. Coil/module is an expensive exercise if your not certain.
Start with things such as coil lead, rotor button & cap etc.
What it doesnt answer is why it dies under 1200 revs. Heat wouldnt be a reason as it wouldnt matter what revs you were at, if a module has packed up, its packed up.
fuel, could be due to low fuel pressure ie faulty fuel reg, but again, this would be throughout the whole rev range of the engine.

Stepper motor is a possibility as it might have failed partially closed, enough to starve the engine of air, but again, doesnt explain the hard to start when hot.

Blocked or stuck injectors are a possibility.
Blocked injectors will starve engine of fuel, will also be hard to start when hot.

Stuck injectors or badly worn units will have almost no spray pattern, spray in a stream, be hard to start when hot and will also give off a fuel smell as it floods the engine.

I like a challenge!!

Cheers
]
Andrew.

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After 9 days I'm back to square one, yesterday started doing the same damn thing.

Things I've done; I've replaced the coil lead but no difference, cleaned and tightened the earth strap (Both ends) from block to coil mounting bolt on inside of fender.

Sometimes at idle the revs seem to increase for perhaps 5 - 20 seconds then drop back to around 900rpm and perhaps down to 600-700rpm then maybe rise again....engine seems to hunt a bit within this range.

When driving if I slow it occurs, it's more like a miss, but if I keep the revs around 1000 - 1200 I can manage to get home.

Seems to stop when vehicle is at normal operating temperature, the revs are around 750-800rpm and I try to drive off (Traffic lights or in traffic queue etc.) it appears to miss and revs just die.

I have to lift bonnet, wait until temp gauge goes down to about the half way (15-30 minutes) between "normal operating temperature (Just left of 6 O'clock) and cold and it will start.

As the temp rises to normal it happens again so it seems to me that it must be set off by temperature but doesn't explain why it was ok for the past 9 days, though my wife mentioned that it seemed like it was about to happen a couple of times when it "gave a cough" when she was driving, I just thought she may have been being a little sensitive to any slight thing because she's worried about getting stuck.

I'm pretty frustrated at the moment and a bit reluctant to just replace parts or pull things around at random in case it muddies the water too much making it more difficult for someone to trouble shoot and isolate the problem, plus there are no Rangie parts places open on the long weekend.

you need to find out if you still have a spark when it dies . ignition parts can fail when hot and work fine when cool. i sometimes use carby cleaner to spray ignition modules when they have failed when hot , it cools them down and if it restarts i can help diagnose the fault.
but first, does it have a spark when it stops ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by peewee

you need to find out if you still have a spark when it dies . ignition parts can fail when hot and work fine when cool. i sometimes use carby cleaner to spray ignition modules when they have failed when hot , it cools them down and if it restarts i can help diagnose the fault.
but first, does it have a spark when it stops ?

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I hear what you're saying but sounds like it might be just a bit dangerous to spray carby cleaner on the module of a hot motor.

Might it be better (Safer) to check for spark immediately after it fails to start when hot??

Bill, the ignition module is STC1184, cost about $70. Not unusual failure, either intermittent or complete. The coil is nothing special - an EFI rated Bosch one will be good enough, about $40.

I don't think the variations in engine speed are ignition related - sounds like it's going lean when unloaded - too much air - points at IAC fault or control of IAC, maybe vacuum line to IAC, or a vacuum line somewhere else on the plenum chamber?

Keep us posted.

Peter

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pierre

Bill, the ignition module is STC1184, cost about $70. Not unusual failure, either intermittent or complete. The coil is nothing special - an EFI rated Bosch one will be good enough, about $40.

I don't think the variations in engine speed are ignition related - sounds like it's going lean when unloaded - too much air - points at IAC fault or control of IAC, maybe vacuum line to IAC, or a vacuum line somewhere else on the plenum chamber?

Keep us posted.

Peter

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UPDATE:Over long weekend in Perth I checked all vacuum hoses (All good), one of my sons called in while I was scratching my head and thinking whether I should relocate the ignition module or just replace it as it was before and whether I really had a choice because the dealers were shut until Tuesday.

We started it up to get it warm to the point it would fail, he got the hose and trickled a bit of cold water onto the block where the Temperature sensor screws into the block (The vertical one) and it seemed to correct the problem.

I replaced both the sensors, the horizontal one as well ($55 for the two) but not at the same time, I did the horizontal one first then tested it (Made no difference) then replaced the vertical one, seems to be running much better and not cutting out and judging by the fumes at the rear of the vehicle to be running much leaner than before and the engine isn't 'hunting' now.

After the problem came back last Saturday after 9 days of thinking it was solved I'm a bit wary of saying it's solved this time but I hope this is the last of it, I will post an update in a 100klm or so for those interested.

Thanks to all for the interest and suggestions to date.

Bill