This Noob has a threaded bolt head on EGR exhaust

Having read a few posts on the problem I used one of those "freeze release" products on the bolts a couple of times before I tried to undo the bolts and had no problems.
I know its a bit late for your situation but:
The standard "L" shaped 5mm hex key is difficult, if not impossible to use in the space available. I recommend a socket drive type hex key be used from the start to reduce the chance of rounding the hex flats.

Thanks all for your suggestions.
Its an awkward spot, far too tight for a key. Its probably how it got stripped in the first place.
I will try the farmers solution, thanks spudboy, but I'll use a torx bit cause they have more edges, probably a 5.5 or 6mm I'll soak it first in penetrating oil or similar and then try and bang it out + vice grips.
If not, a trip down the local mechanic for a drill out might be in order.

Weekend after the coming (27 sept 09) is the Landrover fair in Sydney, so I might be able to pick up a few bits there :cool:

And yeah, my wife is the best. She held the steel rear bumper while I got it in place and is damn cute too :p
James

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco Boy

And yeah, my wife is the best. She held the steel rear bumper while I got it in place and is damn cute too :p
James

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you know the rules, pictures please.

When you eventually get to replacing the bolt, use high temperature anti-seize on the threads. Loctite nickel anti-seize is good.

Just for those who might have come across this by accident....

I managed to grip the bolt heads using a set of nut extractors which worked hugely well, turning the bolt and breaking it off!
Grrr.
The second bolt also turned really well using just the wrench, and also broke off in the manifold!!
:2up:
Son of a bitch!
The rest of the egr came off pretty well, but try as I might I couldnt get those bolts out, vise grips hardly made it, I tried dremelling a centre line and using an easy out but no bloody luck!
I took it down my trusty mechanic, excellent fellows, and 2 hours later they couldnt get the little bastards out either, blowtorch and drills and grips. They wanted to remove the exhaust manifold but then I could see more snapped off bolts and a buggered manifold and head, so we ended up just welding closed the hole.
And its driving great!!:arms:
If I care enough I can get to it later, the main hassle being I had the TD5 alive set, the exhaust plate had the word ALIVE on it and I was wondering, you know, if maybe it would be number 5 alive, but maybe thats later.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR ADVICE, MUCH APPRECIATED

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco Boy

Hi y'áll, my first ever post :arms:

Having been led up the garden path by this site (thanks everyone :D ) I have been setting up the 1999 TD5 auto for an eventual chip upgrade.

New air filter (TD5 alive, excellent), cleaned MAF and MAP (covered in vegemite) and came time to replace EGR with the TD5 bypass kit.
I went to do the exhaust side first (it looked hardest), noticing someone appears to have already had a go at it, and in fact the 5mm hex key just goes around and around a completely threaded head :mad:
The bottom bolt loosened very nicely, and the rest appears untouched.
Question: How can a newbie such as me get that top bolt out of the exhaust side? Having seen what covered my MAP I am desperate to get rid of the egr.

I was thinking of the wifes Dremel and cutting a slot for a flathead, but it looks pretty awkward and the bolt may be too hard. Do bolt extractors actually work?

Second, as a pointer, if I am aiming a mild to moderate chip (140 ?) then will a D2a intercooler be sufficient, or do I need a much more expensive after-market one.
Thx
James
Who loves his disco
(and usually the rest of my family)

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buy a set of the attached grips you will never have trouble with rounded bolts again

Only just read this post.
Next time contact capital thread repair. Great bloke and will come to you. You will be impressed with what he can remove and the quality of his work. He is the guy the workshops call in when they are stuck.