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Thread: Does this look like the right stuff? (EGT)

  1. #31
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    on a similar topic...

    one of the guys at work bought in a nissan with very similar symptoms.

    turns out that the boost compensator plunger had gotten stuck in the full down position meaning that the engine had max fuel available all the time and the turbo was somewhat rooted not making full boost. Smoked like a chimney unless the loud pedal was used gently.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    on a similar topic...

    one of the guys at work bought in a nissan with very similar symptoms.

    turns out that the boost compensator plunger had gotten stuck in the full down position meaning that the engine had max fuel available all the time and the turbo was somewhat rooted not making full boost. Smoked like a chimney unless the loud pedal was used gently.
    Thats the only thing about mine though is it doesn't smoke

    well it does on start up and I get a small puff when flooring it but then it runs ok.....its literally when the car is going up the steepest part of the M4 coming over the mountains its on the steepest bit in third it starts to lose speed quickly then then at 3000 it kicks down too 2nd and the smok just ungulfs the entire road. I guess all I can do is ask the garage to back it off a fraction..either that or be prepared to climb that bit of road at 40..

    thats the stupid thing about it love the way the car is running at the moment on road got much better response its quick off the line can happily pull out and over take on the motorway without having to really think about it and plan it between gaps...this is the bit I don't want to loose. but I guess I have to if I don't want to do risk premature wear and do a head gasket.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  3. #33
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    that can also be a symptom of a sticking advance unit along side of overfueling.


    If the injection timing doesnt advance at high engine RPMS you can wind up not buring all the fuel. on a standard pump setup it usually turns up as a slight loss of power with smoke at full noise. with an overtweaked pump it shows up as buckets of smoke.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    that can also be a symptom of a sticking advance unit along side of overfueling.


    If the injection timing doesnt advance at high engine RPMS you can wind up not buring all the fuel.
    on a standard pump setup it usually turns up as a slight loss of power with smoke at full noise. with an overtweaked pump it shows up as buckets of smoke.
    how can that be rectified?
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  5. #35
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    It may also pay to get the injectors pattern checked but back to the point if thats what it is and not just a case of plain old overfuelling.....

    overhaul the pump.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    if thats what it is and not just a case of plain old overfuelling.....

    It may also pay to get the injectors pattern checked

    overhaul the pump.
    mmm that sounds expensive.

    I would say its a case of over fuelling only because I never had a problem before the pump was changed after the timing belt was done
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  7. #37
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    It probably wouldn't hurt to advance the timing a little.

    JustinC recommends this for the 300Tdi - he has posted several times.

    From memory (but don't trust mine after so many sleeps) I think he recommended 0.3mm plunger lift.

  8. #38
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    so would that be advancing the timing on the injector pump? I wouldn't have a clue ow to advance timing neither would Ian.....

    just can't afford to put the car in the garage at the moment just for a tickle
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    Thats the only thing about mine though is it doesn't smoke

    well it does on start up and I get a small puff when flooring it but then it runs ok.....its literally when the car is going up the steepest part of the M4 coming over the mountains its on the steepest bit in third it starts to lose speed quickly then then at 3000 it kicks down too 2nd and the smok just ungulfs the entire road. I guess all I can do is ask the garage to back it off a fraction..either that or be prepared to climb that bit of road at 40..

    thats the stupid thing about it love the way the car is running at the moment on road got much better response its quick off the line can happily pull out and over take on the motorway without having to really think about it and plan it between gaps...this is the bit I don't want to loose. but I guess I have to if I don't want to do risk premature wear and do a head gasket.
    You have many different cases there.

    1.
    it does on start up
    This is normal - while the engine is cold it can't burn the fuel completely.

    2.
    a small puff when flooring it but then it runs ok
    This is most likely because the fuel is turned up and the turbo boost is low. The boost pressure rises as you accelerate to provide enough air to burn the fuel. Not worth worrying about - you could turn fuel down and accept performance loss, or fit a variable geometry turbo.

    3.
    going up the steepest part of the M4 coming over the mountains
    See previous posts. You have too much fuel or not enough air. The turbo should be producing maximum boost in this case. Either the boost pressure at the inlet manifold is not what it should be (then fix the air problem), or the maximum fuel adjustment on your pump is turned up to high (adjust pump). I think if it was faulty injectors or timing advance mechanism in pump, you would make smoke in other cases.

    4.
    on road got much better response ... can happily pull out and over take
    In these cases your turbo will not be producing maximum boost. This is a different fuel adjustment of the boost compensator on the pump (not the maximum fuel adjustment).

    5.
    its quick off the line
    The turbo is producing little or no boost. This is a different fuel adjustment again of the boost compensator on the pump.

    The maximum fuel screw is on the rear of the pump near the fuel lines that go to the 4 injectors. If the mechanic adjusted this screw, it should be backed off. If the mechanic did not adjust this screw and it is in the stock position, then the rotation adjustment of the fuel pin needs to be changed to reduce the fuelling at maximum boost.

    Your performance off the line (5. above) and at low boost (4. above) don't have to suffer. These are 2 different adjustments of the boost compensator to maximum fuel.

    If the maximum boost, fuel pin adjustment is reduced, this will also reduce fuel at no boost and at low boost. This is why I gave ( in an earlier post) the order that the boost compensator should be adjusted.

    Get the maximum boost fuel correct first. Then adjust the compensator for low boost fuel, then adjust for no boost (3 different adjustments of the boost compensator). As I also said most internet posts about adjusting the boost compensator have the order ar.. about.

  10. #40
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    Hi John as always your posts are sooo informative....

    Only one small issue, we wouldn't be confident enough I don't feel to play with something like this...this is why I got the garage to do it in the first place.

    I don't know whether it would be considered rude...especially as I asked them to tickle the pump..due to the feeling of lack of performance after a timing belt change, that I can then go back and suggest that he has adjusted my pump totally wrong..

    The guy that did it is a great guy and knows his stuff when it comes to landrovers (he said he has done a few pumps for people and they have been really happy) but that could mean anything I guess......but I do trust his advice and things he has done as he has worked my car from the day I owned it..well when I say worked done the bigger jobs that we have been unable to tackle due to tools or time or knowledge

    When I told him what was happening he said to bring it back and he will take another look...

    maybe I can approach it then

    I actually asked Ian yesterday as soon as we have 5 mins to pull the intercooler out and clean and inspect hoses while we are at it.......we were going to do it today and then forgot after spending a rediculous time at bob janes this morning...then I got home and started packing and I just totally forgot. (try and get it done tomorrow after we drop the trailer and things off down at picton).

    at least then I can eliminate that
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




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