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Thread: Head Bolts Won't Shift

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traco View Post

    Anyway, just ordered a set of ARP head studs so there should be no more dramas in that department.
    Some, no rephrase that, all the worst heads I have ever removed have had studs as a retaining system. If they have been there a long time (like you desribed) they are nearly impossible to remove because they grow into the head, exspecially with different metals ie cast blocks, steel threads and alloy heads. I would retain the bolts.
    cheers
    blaze

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bblaze View Post
    Some, no rephrase that, all the worst heads I have ever removed have had studs as a retaining system. If they have been there a long time (like you desribed) they are nearly impossible to remove because they grow into the head, exspecially with different metals ie cast blocks, steel threads and alloy heads. I would retain the bolts.
    cheers
    blaze
    that is why you coat them with Loctite Nickel Anti-seize before installing them.
    URSUSMAJOR

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    that is why you coat them with Loctite Nickel Anti-seize before installing them.
    But as a mechanic (past life) you would hope you never had to pull the same head twice, so not many mechanics coate with an anti seize. I used too but it was the engines that were years old and never had a head removed that were the worse. Air cooled like deuzt often worse because of the higher operating temps.
    cheers
    blaze

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bblaze View Post
    But as a mechanic (past life) you would hope you never had to pull the same head twice, so not many mechanics coate with an anti seize. I used too but it was the engines that were years old and never had a head removed that were the worse. Air cooled like deuzt often worse because of the higher operating temps.
    cheers
    blaze
    I served my apprenticeship as a fitter in a transport business in Western Qld. We always assumed that whatever we fixed would have to be fixed again ( and again, and again) due to the effects of heat, dust, western "roads", poor oils and basic filtration if any, and high mileage. Before anti-seize we used grease. Apprentices would have been chastised if they were noticed not to have used grease or anti-seize on wheel studs in particular.
    URSUSMAJOR

  5. #15
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    Another option that sometimes works is trying to tighten the bolt up slightly, then try to undo it. Sometimes it's enough to get it started. It's a trick I use quite often with stubborn bolts and the rattle gun (eg - rotor to hub bolts).

    Cheers
    Chris

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