Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
numnut eh? .... spec for this bolt is 80nm +90 degrees - go figure :o
...be prepared to undo it properly ;)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
numnut eh? .... spec for this bolt is 80nm +90 degrees - go figure :o
...be prepared to undo it properly ;)
Sometimes its just easier to do a bit of overtime if its available. Just had one done on the 300tdi and the mechanic didn't need to remove the radiator. He worked over the bullbar as well. Haymes manual has details on tools (like 3/8" drill bit) to lock diesel pump and flywheel. Easy enough job if you can start early and have Sunday up your sleeve. Mechanic did the job in about 1 hour but he's good). Download the RAVE manual (465mB - its got everything in it. If you've got plastic ones allow for brass plugs in the radiator as you'll have to drain that. Possibly also hoses and a new radiator overflow tank (or whatever its called) for $65 if it hasn't already been replaced (they crack along the seal). My mechanic used loctite and just gave the main crank bolt a good old heave (no 80nm here).
I priced the whole timing belt kit (pulleys as well) and was quoted an outrageous $550 just to buy the kit. Got the whole thing installed for $450.
cheers gerald
Took me about four hours.
When I first purchased my tdi I did not know the history.
At the time I new nothing about the pump timing pin
I had no manuals to follow.
I just put some texta marks on the pulleys and then counted the notches on the belt between marks.
I then fitted new belt the same.
43,000 kays latter and it is still running fine.
The only tool I had to buy was a fan spanner.
Dave.
Sounds like you're in the wrong game. You should be a surgeon. I think I'd need the full weekend without manuals, etc. I need to take someone like you along next time I'm in the bush.
I am a retired spanner.Quote:
Originally Posted by pirasea
Where is bush for you I have never head of Engadine.
Dave.
87 County, i was not accusing you of being a numnut?
The starter will generate a whole lot more torque than even a grunty 3/4 rattler.
The technique works because it does two things - big torque in a short impulse (cant achieve breaker bar) and effectively holds the crank from turning which can be difficult when using a rattle gun. Im sure there are risks, I presume if you tried hard enough you could burn out your starter. And if you didnt disconnect the fuel solenoid im sure you could have some fun... but as a general rule... it works.
The one case where it wouldnt have worked for me was where I was trying to undo the crank bolt that a previous "mechanic" had MIG glued onto the crank, I guess to make sure it didnt come off.
Judicious grinding first and then the starter did the trick that time.
The thread was fine so Im still a little unsure as to why.
Regards,
S
Hi
About 4 hours to do the belt, left radiator in place but drained it and stuck cardboard on radiator to protect the fins.
Bought Fan Spanner (32mm ? same as ford)
Bought 27mm 3/4 socket for crank bolt
used locktite to put bolt back on
Used instructions from difflock site
Made thing to hold crank to tighten up the crank bolt (About 2 hours to make)
Bought the timing pins kit and puller off ebay. (franklin?)
Used the starter to undo crank bolt
Biggest problem was i had wrong seal for front timing cover as i have the older version and seal for the new version. Had to wait till monday to get correct one.
My belt had been running true after 100000k and very clean. Put tensioner and pulley kit on.
About to do it again at 160000k
will be quicker next time. I hope it is just the belt this time??
have lent the tools out before to folk on here.
Cheers james
Mr Whippy/ Dave
Engadine is one solid hour south of Sydney and 20mins inland from the coast, so bush for me is anywhere west of the Great Divide, although it's probably still not technically the bush is it?! Especially when you look on the map of the whole country. Still really coastal.
cheers gerald
Allow a full day. Take your time and check other things while your at it.
I did mine over two days because I had to replace one of the woodruff keys and didn't request one in the original parts order. The time I spent waiting for a new key was an opportunity to clean some of the excess oil and grime from the front of the motor and inside the timing cover.
Don't forget to allow for the front timing cover bearing being replaced or the whole cover being replaced.
A new cover is expensive $400ish so it might pay to have the right bearing ready to go. Instructions for replacing the bearing is in the tutorials section.
I have done three timing belts now using the difflock guide and my car is still going strong 25,000+ km later.