Not sure how long a home mechanic would take, I guess it would depend on skill and tools etc but my mech charged me 3 hrs and that included changing all radiater hoses as well.
Good luck.
Hi All,
Does any one know how long it takes for a first timer to change a 300 tdi timing belt, I plan on removing the radiator etc, but I believe you also need some special tools or can they be subsituted with other tools,
Thanks in advance
Scotty P
Not sure how long a home mechanic would take, I guess it would depend on skill and tools etc but my mech charged me 3 hrs and that included changing all radiater hoses as well.
Good luck.
I haven't done it myself (on the Disco anyway), but a friend of mine, who is a car mechanic, did it in about four hours. You will need a tool to lock the flywheel in place. If you own a Haynes manual you can look up how to make one yourself. Good luck!
Cheers
Johannes
There are people who spend all weekend cleaning the car.
And there are people who drive Discovery.
Mate I hear what you saying and normally I'd agree, but good help in Airlie beach is hard to find, I got a mechanic to do my clutch which I normally do myself and they stuffed it up, the bearing came out of the fork arm and they didn't touch the flywheel, so thats why the homework.
Cheers
the first time i done mine 200 tdi,it took all day.this time the third i think about 4.i dont take the radiator out but it would help as i end up with no skin on the knuckles,havnt got any special tools,a viscous fan tool will help though,just take your time, theres a good guide here,
http://www.fag.hiof.no/~frodehaa/disco.html,
and turn the engine over by hand before you try to start
I personally haven't done it, but have seen what is involved.
If was going to attempt it myself (as a first timer), I would allow a FULL day to do it and make sure I had a spare day after in case something went wrong or I needed something I didn't have.
Take lots of photos as you go so that you have a reference if neeeded and don't be in a rush.
Good luck!![]()
give yourself a free day
have all the replacement parts on hand (incl water pump & "P" gasket, replacement idler bearings, gaskets & belts)
there are pics of the special tooling you will need to make or borrow in the gallery section on this site (I don't know how to link to them from here), but basically the most difficult thing to do is undoing the crankshaft pulley bolt & pulling the harmonic balancer, and then it is a matter of locking the crankshaft and injector pump while you replace and tension the new belt..... there are numerous articles on this
NB the usual home handyman method of putting a spanner on the pulley bolt and hitting the starter to loosen it is unlikely to work on 300tdi
check the condition of the fan bearing and viscous unit (not usually considered to be repairable)
oh, here we are.....
http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.p...8/ppuser/14555
http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.p...9/ppuser/14555
"NB the usual home handyman method of putting a spanner on the pulley bolt and hitting the starter to loosen it is unlikely to work on 300tdi"
Hmm, this technique works just fine unless some numnut has welded the crank bolt on???
Removing the rad is helpful for space and if you dont have A/C lets you see align marks more easily but isnt overly necessary. It does give you the chance to change hoses, flush the rad and I/C and of course makes sit easier to get the rattle gun in
Have fun - it aint rocket science. The difflock article is hard to beat for step by step instructions.
Steve
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
I did mine on the Disco when I first got it last year, but just picked away at over a few days/evenings so cant tell you how long it actually took. I think nice1guv is probably on the money with allow a day and have some time up your sleeve in case it goes pear-shaped.
I had the radiator rodded while it was out (definitely worthwhile if yours hasn't been done for a few years), and did a few other jobs like the P gasket, and intercooler flush while it was out.
Dont forget to get the crank seal (not usually part of the timing belt kit), and also some O rings for the oil cooler pipes where they go into the radiator.
There should be plenty of info here - check the "Good Oil" section for a tutorial, or have a look at the one on Difflock.com.
From memory, the special tools you'll need:
- Viscous hub spanner (and its a LH thread from memory)
- Pump timing pin (or shank of correct size drill bit)
- crank timing pin (can be made out of a bolt)
- tool to hold the crank pulley while you do the bolt back up. From memory the torque is roughly 1 small hernia plus 90degrees. At a pinch, very tight plus 90degrees with a rattle gun works.
To get the bolt undone I found wedging the bar/socket against the chassis and giving the starter a quick flick was the easiest way (with fuel solenoid wire disconnected so it doesn't start).
Its quite a simple job, but I've heard of people having lots of grief when previous mechanics have loctited the crank pulley or bolt on.
Steve
6 hours to a day depending on how you are with the spanners and what else your doing.
my advice is to start nice and early (0600) so that when something goes pear shaped its still before lunch so you can easily duck down to repco or the likes to get stuff
then if it goes wrong again you should still have enough hours left in the day to go have another visit if needed.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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