A frame ball joint

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

You need an American screwdriver (hammer), the most used screwdriver in the old Sidchrome sets (the big yellow headed flat with the steel shaft running through the handle), a 4" grinder and a jigsaw with a long metal cutting blade or a hacksaw.

To remove the nut: remove the split pin then use the hammer and screwdriver to strike the nut obliquely to loosen it. Discard nut.

Use a jack to pop the ball joint out of the diff taper if stubborn. Remove housing from A frame as per previous post. Remove the two small bolts from the joint.

Carefully ring bark the joint above the flange with the grinder to remove the 'lid'. Remove what's left of the top nylon cup. The ball can be pulled out from the top. Remove what's left of the bottom cup.

Place in a vice and make several small cuts from inside the joint towards the outside with the jigsaw or hacksaw taking care not to cut the housing.
The internal tension will gradually ease in what's left of the joint but be prepared for the jigsaw or hacksaw to grab when it finally lets go. Remains just fall out.

cheers, DL

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and refitting is the reverse sequence... sorry I couldn't help myself;)
But how did you fit the new one?

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Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

and refitting is the reverse sequence... sorry I couldn't help myself;)
But how did you fit the new one?

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Hey.............. Americans never refit anything, do they? :D

Clean the rust off the inside of the mount with a wire brush, smear with a little grease, sit the joint in the housing up to the 'splines' and insert the two bolts to act as a guide.

I use a of piece of pipe over each side of the joint and a vice to slowly squeeze it into the housing, tightening the bolts as it goes in. Done it this way 3 times now, no probs.

cheers, DL

Thanks for the info guys,

looks like I need to unbolt it and see how I go with it.

Anyone know off the top off there heads what size that bottom nut is?

I will need to go buy a ring spanner tomorrow.

Do you think it may be harder to undo that nut without the car jacked up so there is more pressure on the ball joint, or shouldnt really matter?

As I havent got axle stands that are high enough for my chasis I will try at normal ride height first.

cheers

it wont make any difference to the undoing of the nut but it may make some difference in the removal of the joint from the diff housing.. (its basically an oversized tie rod type deal)

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Originally Posted by DassaW

Anyone know off the top off there heads what size that bottom nut is?

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You've just reminded me what the weird tap spanner is in my tool box for. It fitted the nut on the previous joint, but doesn't fit the LRA adjustable one I have now. Had to borrow a 'selection' from the local garage to nip it up.

Can't help, but if it's an LRA one give them a call.

cheers, DL

Ok, managed to get it changed over.

Ended up doing it at ride height, but just used a bottle jack on the diff under the front of it to get the angle of the diff right to extract the ball joint.

I did have to undo the 2 bolts holding the ball joint bracket onto the 2 upper link arms.

Then with that out I managed to tap the ball joint out with a hammer, then I squeezed the new one in by slowly tightening up those two little retaining bolts.

I have decide that while I have it all out, I will replace the bushes in the front of the upper links, so have unbolted them too. Might give them to a mechanic as they look tight.

thanks for the help.

cheers

Darren

I had to change the "A" Frame ball joint on my 130. With the help of Minniethemoocha we we able to complete the job inside 3 hours.

Steps followed
1. chock front wheels
2. jack up rear of car and place axle stands under the chassis. The wheels were just clear of the ground.
3. Remove the 4 bolts securing the Ball Joint carrier to the diff.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the A frame to the Ball joint carrier
5. Remove the Ball joint Carrier.
6. Remove split pin
7. Remove 2 bolts holding Ball joint in Carrier.
8. Press the old ball joint out with bearing press.
9. Clean up Carrier and apply some anti sieze
10. Press in new ball joint. (make sure retaining plate lines up with carrier.We used some longer bolts to position the ball joint.
11. Replace bolts to secure ball joint to carrier.

Refitting bearing carrier is the reverse of above.

We needed to apply some pressure with a jack to the bottom of diff to get the A frame bolts to align.

Attachment 21925

Attachment 21926

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Originally Posted by brendanb

we we able to complete the job inside 3 hours.

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Must've had a break for refreshments along the way. :D

cheers, DL

Cake and cordial

First one I did would have taken that long and after I'd pretty much destroyed it getting it out of the A-frame carrier I realised it was one of the original adjustable ones. :o :D

Good to see you have a go and win.

cheers, DL