Reply With Quotefrom memory a jack under the front of the diff as it will tilt down......umm 4+ years ago i did mine
Master
Gday guys,
am currently in the process of changing my a frame ball joint on my 97 disco.
A few questions which I know some of you will be able to answer for me.
Do I need to jack the vehicle up to do this? can I not do it with the vehicle at ride height?
What is the best way to undo the bottom nut whihc is closest to the diff, I tried a socket earlier today but it just doesnt quite fit on because of the angle, and I cant get a big shifter on it because the fuel tank is in the way.
I am replacing the whole unit so figure I dont need a press, just undo the old and put the new one in.
any info would be great.
cheers
Darren
Swaggie
from memory a jack under the front of the diff as it will tilt down......umm 4+ years ago i did mine
RoverLord
support the vehicle on the chassis on jack stands (not totally clear of the ground just get some weight off)
support the front of the diff (I normally use a standard hydraulic jack not a trolly jack) under the flange pinion., its not really needed if you have the front of the vehicle chocked properly with the handbrake locked on hard and the CDL on. but it makes a hell of a difference when it comes to putting it all back together.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ForumSage
SupporterI think I used a ring spanner to undo the nut.
1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.
The are a mongrel to hit out of the carrier some times , a press would be ideal.
OldBushie
Oh yeah, tell me about itOriginally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!
Ended up removing the whole a-frame on the Defender and even then it wasn't easy to press out.
That said some of them will just "pop" out... from what I've been told.
Also check the state of the bolts and bushes on the a-frame.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
ForumSage
Hi,
You'll need a ring spanner to undo the nut, as previously posted. If the ball (with the thread) wants to turn with the nut then the tapered seat is a bit worn but see how you go. This can be remedied later.
You won't be able to get the joint out of the mount in situ so undo the two bolts holding the mount between the A frame arms and remove the mount with the joint.
If you haven't done one before the easiest way is to take the mount and new joint to a garage, etc, and get the old one pressed out and new one pressed in using the two little retaining bolts as a guide. Can take over 10 tonnes to get old ones out.
Refit is the reverse. If the nut won't seat the joint securely in the taper in the diff (runs out of thread due to worn taper) just post and it can be sorted with a specific size washer.
cheers, DL
ForumSage
If anyone is interested I can post the 'American' way of undoing the nut without a spanner and getting the old joint out of the mount without a press, but will take no responsibility for any consequences.
cheers, DL
RoverLord
let me guess...
hammers and gas axes right....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ForumSage
You need an American screwdriver (hammer), the most used screwdriver in the old Sidchrome sets (the big yellow headed flat with the steel shaft running through the handle), a 4" grinder and a jigsaw with a long metal cutting blade or a hacksaw.
To remove the nut: remove the split pin then use the hammer and screwdriver to strike the nut obliquely to loosen it. Discard nut.
Use a jack to pop the ball joint out of the diff taper if stubborn. Remove housing from A frame as per previous post. Remove the two small bolts from the joint.
Carefully ring bark the joint above the flange with the grinder to remove the 'lid'. Remove what's left of the top nylon cup. The ball can be pulled out from the top. Remove what's left of the bottom cup.
Place in a vice and make several small cuts from inside the joint towards the outside with the jigsaw or hacksaw taking care not to cut the housing.
The internal tension will gradually ease in what's left of the joint but be prepared for the jigsaw or hacksaw to grab when it finally lets go. Remains just fall out.
cheers, DL
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