ZF's work fine with ordinary Dextron II or III so don't waste your hard earned on fancy oils.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Mine's still going strong at 305,000 km.
Dave.
Printable View
ZF's work fine with ordinary Dextron II or III so don't waste your hard earned on fancy oils.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Mine's still going strong at 305,000 km.
Dave.
Standard they will take Dextron 3.
If you have heat issues or it has been heavily modded then you need to run the Transmax Z.
I run Transmax Z in mine but then my box is olny standard in the housing. The guts are non standard.
I'll prob go with the Tranzmax Z as I love my RRC and want it to go forever, and I do mostly highway driving so high transmission speeds.
There doesnt seem to be a transmission light on my dash?
Is it worth fitting a transmission cooler?
Regards.
I use Nulon oils & fluids right thru my Disco.
As soon as I changed the trans fluid, the shifts were smoother etc. The trick I found was to drain the fluid, remove the trans sump cover, and then leave it overnight to drain.
I ended up putting back about 6L of new fluid.
Would it be fair to say that parking the front wheels on ramps would allow the fluid out of the torque converter etc to drain back into the transmission sump?
I doubt the angle will make much of a difference for draining the torque converter.
A trans cooler is always a good thing. As for speed mine runs best at speed. Thats when the cooler gets plenty of air through it. but then I have the air to oil trans cooler and then the engine coolant to oil cooler for it. Thing it hates most is slow in traffic during summer.
THe box also loves low range:).
Most important thing is get the level right as to much oil will also help to get it hot.
If you really want to do a full change and get all the oil including convertor and cooler what you do is remove pan and clean and refit. Then remove the cooler return line from the auto.
Place a hose over the removed line. Start the engine and while it is pumping out the old oil keep topping it up with new until you see nice clean oil coming out of you hose.
The reason this works is that the oil coming from the convertor is your hottest oil, so it is therefore pumped straight to the cooler.
As for jacking up the front of the car you are wasting your time. Even if you remove the auto and tip the convertor upright you will still only get half the oil out.
What I used to do was drill a small hole, about 3/16 in the bottom of the convertor(Removed from vehicle) which then got all the oil out. I would then pour solvent into the convertor and shake it and drain. I would do this twice and then after copious amounts of compressed air I would then run the arc welder over the hole.
I have probably done this about 200 times.
Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSK
ALWAYS a good idea, the cooler the auto the longer they last.
The wifes 1974 Mercedes 350 SL has a drain plug on the converter to get the oil out , why dont they all do this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Whippy
I know this might sound silly but my belief is it comes down to cost. It might cost fifty cents per car, not much I hear you say, but 100,000 cars means a saving of $50,000.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
The same reason I believe that manufactures don't use brass welch plugs.
Probably saves $2 per car. 100,000 cars made $200,000 saved.
Fords did put a plug in the convertors in their V8 C4 and FMX transmission.
I used to drill and tap a thread and then fit a grub screw, but after having a few leak I went back to welding the hole.
Dave.