With the proviso that you need to add a pressure regulator limited to a maximum of 20psi or a pressure reliefe valve set to the same
I'll back that...
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With the proviso that you need to add a pressure regulator limited to a maximum of 20psi or a pressure reliefe valve set to the same
I'll back that...
just noticed a leak under the car.....coming from the water pump I'm guessing we have stuffed the water pump due to it running dry the other day:(
I have another new water pump here already....but I remember someone saying once you should fit a P gasket to it I think metal.. I only have the paper gasket that comes with it.. anyone do me the honours if that is correct to save me a search by giving me a part number and perhaps an idea of where to get it from.
the paper gasket will be fine so long as nothing is warped and you give it a thorough pasting of hylomar #3 on both sides and leave it assembled and dry for at least 24 hours...
thats whats holding fozzys water pump onto the block with about a .75mm deviation from flat.
really adventurous home mechanics who dont like real mechanics would use hylomar #4 or araldite.
best of luck with it, glad its not looking like the head.
haven't got that far yet dave it still could be....we haven't touched it yet as nothing has been open for us to get our hands on a thermostat and other bits and bobs that we needQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I did my "P" gasket about 18 months ago. I did not use a gasket, just cleaned the surface and put it together with plumbers roof and gutter silicone.
18 months later still ok.
I have been doing this for years with no trouble.
My old Range Rover water pump and many a thermostat housing, Not to mention many gearboxes.
Have also used it on exhaust joints.
Dave.
Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
If you notice the gauge only goes to 35psi therefore with large scale calibrations it is very easy to control.
I just use my tyre gauge (like the old ones in servos) and carefully take it to 20psi.
No different to my proper hand pressure tester. It will allow me to pump it way over 20 if I wanted to.
Dave.
Be careful using silicone on any part that's linked to the cooling system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Whippy
When i purchased my first Disco i noticed that a previous owner loved using silicone on the engine, it was orange stuff & just about on everything.
I had the radiator rodded because it was running hotter than i felt it should.
The first thing the radiator dude asked me was "who uses the orange silicone"
The radiator was 60% blocked by this silicone, it had gone down the radiator tubes and dried in them like strands of spagetti
I have been doing this for years. The trick is to only smear a thin amount on the join. I then let it dry for a couple of hours before adding water.
At times when I have removed the joint for some other reason the small bead that has been squeezed inside the joint is still there.
Dave.
Works great for sealing sleeves on a Fordson tractor too:D
Lou,
Use an Upgraded tin type 'P' gasket, (IIRC the part number is PET100790) and make sure the sufaces are immaculate and dry. Use a small bead of a GOOD QUALITY silicone type sealant, I use Wurth 250 but it is costly.
The 3 long bolts through the water pump into the block will need their threads cleaned out and wire wheel cleaned if possible. Dip them in nickel antisieze before refitting.
I hope this was the cause of the water loss etc, sounds like it:)
JC