D2 AC drain mod.

**discowhite** · 2nd January 2010, 02:15 PM

and easy way to move the AC drains on your D2 to save your auto selector switch and the DC joint.

to do the pass side you need to remove the 2 crossmembers and the front section of the exhaust system.
then remove the one way valve from the end of the drain, it just pulls out. and looks like this.

then get 2 lengths of 5/16'' fuel hose, i cut mine 10'' long. clean the inside of the drains one side at a time and then glue the fuel hose inside the drain with some sikaflex. put the sikaflex on the fuel hose, as it slides inside the drain it will make its own seal. only push the hose in 25mm.
run the hose all down hill and make sure there are no kinks then zip tie the hose to the body to secure it.

in this shot you can see the drain in the middle of the shot and the water running down the auto selector switch

and now with the hose in place the drain is now on the outside of the chassis rail.

this is the drive shaft side.

all up it took about 50min to do.

cheers phil

**alien** · 2nd January 2010, 06:53 PM

This looks fairly simple to do.
Have you refitted the one way valves? or given the length of hose is there no point.
I've got a TD5 and had both of my valves out today without removing any parts, bit tight on the L/H side though.
Thanks for this simple fix.

**discowhite** · 2nd January 2010, 07:58 PM

nah, havent refitted them, actually there was only one...the other one fell off somewhere in the last 160 000 k's

cheers phil

**discowhite** · 17th January 2010, 12:41 PM

maybe this should be in the good oil?

**Redback** · 18th January 2010, 07:06 AM

Interesting, the AC drain on my manual doesn't drip over the DC joint, is it only the auto that needs to be moved

Baz.

**disco_thrasher** · 18th January 2010, 07:28 AM

Originally Posted by Redback

Interesting, the AC drain on my manual doesn't drip over the DC joint, is it only the auto that needs to be moved

Baz.

i have the 2000 manual and i had to relocate mine

maybe yours is special

cheers kelvin

**haydent** · 4th April 2011, 02:34 PM

heres a photo of my AC drain extender, and my inhibitor switch once opened. it looked water hadn't gotten in there, more that it was just worn out.

i thought it would be water damage as at one stage the drain had blocked leading to AC system flooding the floor mats, this is what leh me to make the extender.

i couldnt find the post i read ages ago when troubles first began that showed someone had fixed their switch by opening it up and cleaning the copper tracks, but this model switch is different and uses switches rather than copper tracks.

**KEV0044** · 24th January 2012, 01:54 PM

Originally Posted by haydent

heres a photo of my AC drain extender, and my inhibitor switch once opened. it looked water hadn't gotten in there, more that it was just worn out.

i thought it would be water damage as at one stage the drain had blocked leading to AC system flooding the floor mats, this is what leh me to make the extender.

i couldnt find the post i read ages ago when troubles first began that showed someone had fixed their switch by opening it up and cleaning the copper tracks, but this model switch is different and uses switches rather than copper tracks.

Can I ask what diameter hose you used and did you fit it inside or over the top of the original A/C drain hose ?

**haydent** · 24th January 2012, 02:04 PM

the new section goes inside the output under the car, the diameter i can get for you tomorrow when the car is around, i just got it from autobarn

**KEV0044** · 24th January 2012, 02:09 PM

Excellent - - - Thanks

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