The tacho is driven by a feed from one phase of the alternator. Check the connector at the alternator.
99% of the time my tacho works perfectly. Then for some unknown reason it just dies. Cruising on the freeway yesterday, it did a couple of jumps then settled on the stop. The motor kept running, there were no other signs of trouble, just a dead tcho. When I got to the end of the freeway, it came back on again.
It did it again later so I pounded on the dash a bit to try and get a reaction, but nothing.
It doesn't seem to be related to road conditions, but who knows?
The tacho is driven by a feed from one phase of the alternator. Check the connector at the alternator.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Never thought of the alternator, thanks I'll have a look.
I do not wish to put a hex on you, but last month my taco did the same a number of times and then died. No warning lights on the dash but after checking connections and finding all ok, threw on a muliti meter and found Alternator had dropped its bundle. Confirmed at Auto elec, Alt dead $320 later taco works. Godo luck might also be the spade terminal at the back of the alternator. Give it a clean![]()
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Exact same symptoms as you, mostly fine, would occasionally just drop, everything else was fine. Turned out to be the wire to the back of the alternator as others have suggested. Mine fell apart as soon as I touched it, put a new female blade type attachment end on it, hasn't been an issue since (almost 12 months).
Seano
Well it gradually got worse so I decided to have a go at the alternator connection. It looked OK, but with electricity you never know. Replaced it, full of hope, started it up and went for a drive.
Exactly the same as before.
so it looks like an alternator strip down to repair it. But as it's an auto, I'm not going to worry about it just yet.
My spade term was getting hot from the nearby exhaust, thus easing the crimp pressure and letting the wire go.
Changed brand of crimp terminal. Much better, but still problems.
What rocking motion of motor there was, was fracturing the strands at the back of the crimp.
Had to change wire type and secure it to feeds to nearby d'light, hi beam, lo beam relays, for stability. Used silicon (high temp) insulated type - very flexible. Spliced it back to the original installed wire back near the heater air intake.
'luck,
Rovers4
Hmm. Didn't think bout the actual wire. Might check that tomorrow.
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