I am out in the night moving the pick up wires.
Voltrage fidldling with injection may be a contributor with injection therefore mixture at idle.
I'll kepp all in the loopp over thenext week or so.
Thanks Bee Utey.
Cliff
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I am out in the night moving the pick up wires.
Voltrage fidldling with injection may be a contributor with injection therefore mixture at idle.
I'll kepp all in the loopp over thenext week or so.
Thanks Bee Utey.
Cliff
This pricked my ears up! Mine does this, driving through town slow(second gear about 20/30 kms) it surges and lurches about. I DO have a snorkle, The revs dont settle down to an idle for about 10 seconds after I stop. My timimig is 10 degress at idle checked yesterday, I assume with vacuum connected because I did not touch it. I changed my plugs to what you sugested(the ngk ones) and I'm doing your ignition module/coil swap this week as well.Any thaughts on my tune/idle? So thanks n keep it coming! I'm keen to get it sorted!Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Also I am doing your gas processor/02 sensor upgade once this other stuff is sorted!
Quote:
Originally Posted by crossedup
Need to know what your lpg system parts are...Quote:
your system type...
When you check ignition timing you should rev up the engine and observe the timing pointer. At idle both vacuum and mechanical advance are at minimum. Disconnect the vacuum, bring the revs up, observe the mechanical advance. Then reconnect the vacuum, see how much extra advance you get. If none, suck on the vacuum hose to the capsule on the dissy, do you get a continuous flow (and a bad taste)? There may also be crud blocking the vac port on the manifold, at revs your finger should feel suction. If not, unblock it with a pin or tiny drill bit.
Ok! Thanks did none of that, But now I will. My gas info:wasntme:,oops wrong gas! Any way My system is impco converter type L,Impco mixer 200. Hope this helps
Checked my timing this arvo,10 deg at idle about 16 deg mechanical. But my vacuum lines were not hooked up at all! Put a hose on and sucked on it at about 2000rpm and there was no change. The person I bought the car off said it had a haltec computer,but I cannot confirm this as I cannot find it(where should it be?) So more questions. PLS who has some answers
If you have mechanical advance but no vacuum, then I doubt that a haltech ECU is controlling the ignition. I think the ECU hides behind one of the kick panels, I've never looked for one in a D1.
New vac capsules are available from advanced Diaphragm Options
Advance Diaphragm Options
Heads up to all looking at buying parts, Repco and NRMA road side servce members have a sale on all month. 20% off, just bought a bosch BIM024 for $48 nice!
Hi, I started doing the swap but I have come across a problem, being lpg the red and blue wires have been re routed in board in a bundle with a black and yellow wire. Black is an earth, the yellow appears to control the gas solenoid.The first pic shows the red/blue wires joining the new bundle.Second and third pic shows the wire that was on the positive coil,the earth wire with the black plug would go to the coil negative.Last pic is the earth that was on the coil.Would I be right in connecting the old coil positive to the no 3 terminal and the old earth wire to the no7 terminal? Hope this is not a stupid question but im a little bit lost. I have already finished the dizzy and was going to cut my new red/black wires to the red/blue wires just near where the new 4 wire bundle started.
Thanks
Attachment 48752
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You shouldn't mark the wires going to the coil negative with "E" for earth, they aren't earth at all. Earth is vehicle body metal or battery negative.
What I can see is that someone has replaced the OEM Lucas amp already, the new amp is obviously sourced with loom off another vehicle. It is the thing at the bottom of your 3rd pic. If you snip off the red and blue wires after the heat shrinks you can terminate them to the BIM024 module directly as per my pics before. Terminal 3 for blue, terminal 7 for red, terminal 15 to coil +ve, terminal 16 to coil -ve, mounting pad/screw hole is earth. You don't need new wiring from the dissy to the amp, what you have already is all you need.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...-bosch-024.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
See how it is done here: no extra wiring needed at all.
Remove the wiring associated with the amp you have there already, remember to reconnect the negative side of the coil to the gas wiring loom for the safety cut-out to operate the gas solenoids. The black wire from the amp loom will be the coil (-) switching wire, analogous to the terminal 16 of the 024 module.
The white/black stripe wire with the male terminal you have marked "E" is the OEM wire to the ECU and must be connected to the negative side of the coil. It is the ECU input for engine rotation, without it there will be no petrol injection. The plain white wire with an OEM connector should be the positive feed for the coil. The red and grey wires (with your (+) tag) look like some sort of hidden kill switch or anti-theft wiring, undo it until you are absolutely clear where they go.
Hi Bee Utey, I will be doing this mod shortly in conjunction with the engine upgrade I'm doing and I just want to know what sort of heat sink I could get away with. I notice on the second pic from your last post, it looks like the amp is mounted to a chunk of mild steel - is this sufficient? Being the tight arse that I am, I don't want to run out and buy a proper heat sink if I don't have to - I have heaps of crap in the garage, and I would prefer to use what I already have.
Cheers - Gav
